Portugal for mountain lovers: our road trip around the Serra da Estrela

Between the tourist magnets of Lisbon and Porto stretches a stretch of land that most tourists deliberately “overlook”. The Centro de Portugal region would offer a wealth of exciting sights; from sleepy fishing villages, to picturesque historic villages, to the mighty Serra da Estrela – the highest mountain range in mainland Portugal. We picked out a few selected highlights of the region and explored them during a (far too short) four-day road trip. Conclusion: Central Portugal didn’t see us for the last time, because it really packed our sleeves.

From the Algarve to the Centro de Portugal region

We added the four-day trip to the mountainous hinterland of Portugal to our yoga & hiking holidays in the Algarve. We first went from Lisbon to the Algarve for 5 days and spent the second part of the holidays around the Serra da Estrela. The distance between the Algarve and the Serra da Estrela is a good 500 kilometres.

In order to divide the route and see more of the region, we planned a stopover in the pilgrimage site of Fátima in the route. I would have liked to include a detour to a winery in the route, but unfortunately my intended object of desire – L’and Vineyards – had closed their Michelin-starred restaurant for lunch on the day of our trip. The restaurant O Malho, located in a small village not far from Fátima (address: R. Padre Reis, 2380-537 Malhou), turned out to be an adequate alternative and serves finely prepared, traditional dishes. It was definitely worth the little detour.

Fátima is one of the most important places of pilgrimage for the Catholic churches and at the same time a good starting point for visiting two monasteries in the surrounding area, which have been declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO (the Mosteiro da Batalha and the Convento de Cristo in Tomar).

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We left it at a short tour of the extensive grounds of the pilgrimage site. Because our real highlight of Fátima is hidden behind inconspicuous red gates; the Boutique Hotel Luz Charming Houses. An enchanting accommodation for which even detours to Fátima would be worthwhile.

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The Route of the Historic Villages

After a fine breakfast at Luz Charming Houses, we continue our road trip towards Serra da Estrela. If you drive directly from Fátima to Manteigas in the Serra da Estrela, you should allow around 2.5 hours of driving time. But the direct route is not necessarily the most exciting. Because around the Serra da Estrela are the Aldeias Históricas de Portugal. If you plan the route accordingly and have enough time (3 days are recommended), you can combine all twelve historic villages with each other.

We made a selection and looked at the prettiest specimens not far from the Serra da Estrela. One of them is Piódão, which is the only one of the twelve that does not have a castle and is not enthroned high on a hill, but is located in an impressive valley landscape.

Also worth seeing are Monsanto and Sortelha – both with a castle and a great panoramic view over the hills of central Portugal.

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We make a final stop in Belmonte, which is located on the way to Manteigas. Here it is worth stopping off at the Pousada do Convento de Belmonte restaurant.

Tradition & luxury in the Serra da Estrela Natural Park

It’s not far from Belmonte to Manteigas. Manteigas is centrally located in the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, making it the ideal base from which to explore the area. In the middle of the village there is a factory with international appeal. The processing of “Burel”, a wool fabric made from Bordaleira sheep, has a long tradition and was one of the most important economic sectors in the mountain region until the 1980s. With Isabel Costa and Joao Tomás, two hoteliers awakened Burel production from its slumber and now work successfully with designers from all over the world. The decisive factor was the furnishing of the hotel Casa das Penhas Douradas, which the two converted from a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients into a boutique hotel, integrating local crafts.

From Monday to Saturday at 11 a.m. there is a guided tour of the Burel factory. Otherwise, a visit to the factory shop, which is open Monday to Friday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and on Saturday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., is worthwhile.

In autumn 2018, the two entrepreneurs converted another building and opened the Casa de São Lourenço, the first 5-star hotel in the Serra da Estrela. In this hotel, too, the imaginatively processed woollen fabric is omnipresent and creates a homely ambience.

Explore the Serra da Estrela on foot

Manteigas is surrounded by the extensive network of hiking trails known as the “Green Tracks” (Trilhos Verdes). This includes a total of 18 routes, which are described in detail on the website of the same name and signposted on site. Nothing stands in the way of extensive hiking here. We picked out a hike that starts right behind the Casa de São Lourenço. The “Beech Route” (signposted as PR13MTG) leads us through autumnal deciduous forests to a fire watchtower on a hill and from there to the Capela de São Lourenço. A beautiful, varied route of almost 6 kilometers, from where we also have a beautiful view towards Torre. While the highest mountain in Portugal is located in the Azores, the Torre takes over the position of the highest mountain in mainland Portugal with a height of 1,993 m above sea level. Conveniently, a road leads up to this summit.

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But before we head for the Torre, we make a stop at the Poço do Inferno. The beautifully situated waterfall is unfortunately only a pitiful trickle on this late autumn day and up at the Torre the weather finally changes. Who would have thought that we would be surprised by the snow in Portugal. At least the car rental company didn’t expect it either, because we could have used an ice scraper the next morning.

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With a stopover on the Atlantic Ocean back to Lisbon

One thing is clear – two nights in the Serra da Estrela are enough to get a taste of it, but they are definitely not enough to hike all the branched mountain valleys. The last road trip takes us from Manteigas back to Lisbon. But this time, too, we don’t aim for the direct route, but make a detour to the Atlantic coast. At Restaurante Noah in Praia da Física (about an hour’s drive from Lisbon), freshly caught fish are very popular. A casual place to end our Portugal trip.

Practical tips for your road trip through the Serra da Estrela

• If you use the motorways of Portugal, you have to pay tolls. Our rental car had integrated the Via Verde system and so we were able to pass the toll booths on the appropriately marked lane. The toll amount was deducted from my credit card on file after the trip. We covered a good 1,000 kilometres of motorway in one week and paid a total of 90 euros in tolls.
• The Serra da Estrela stretches at altitudes up to 2,000 m above sea level and the weather is unstable; keep this in mind when packing.
• Don’t underestimate the distances – as soon as you leave the motorways, the narrow roads wind through a seemingly endless hilly landscape. For four days, you have to set priorities.
• An overnight stay at Luz Charming House costs from around 130 CHF per night / room including breakfast. In Manteigas, you pay for a night at Casa de São Lourenço from around 210 CHF per night / room. At Casa das Penhas Douradas, the overnight rate starts at around 170 CHF.
• You can find more tips and impressions from the Centro de Portugal region in the travelogue of Sommertage

Note: this trip was supported by the Centro de Portugal region. As always, all impressions and opinions are ours.