Montafon – skiing on old smugglers’ paths

It’s snowing and snowing and snowing. If we were to set off on these days on the formerly busy mule track from Gargellen over the Schlappinerjoch towards Switzerland and Italy, it would not be an easy undertaking. Winter has settled in the Montafon and buried the old smugglers’ paths deep underneath. In addition to the groomed slopes in the four ski areas of Silvretta-Montafon, Gargellen, Golm and Kristberg, the region attracts visitors with ski safaris, cross-border ski tours, snowshoe tours and torchlight hikes.

Snow, snow, snow in the ski resort

My thighs are burning. But Günther knows no mercy and weaves nimbly through the deep powder snow down into the valley. Secretly, I’m a tiny bit glad that the intense snowfall and the resulting high avalanche danger thwarted our plans. How would my thighs have felt after the Madrisa round trip? The ski tour through the Rätikon leads through the magnificent mountains of the border region between Switzerland and Austria. It starts with a one-hour ascent from the Gargellen ski area to the St. Antönier Joch. This is followed by a steep deep snow descent to Küblis. Return towards Montafon with the Madrisa lift in Klosters and from there continue on foot to the Schlappinerjoch, where the notorious smugglers’ paths passed. At the latest on the rapid descent through the Valzifenz valley back to Gargellen, my thighs would probably have complained.

But postponed is not cancelled and you don’t want to complain when Mother Hulda finally lets the really big snowflakes dance. Instead of the actual tour, we explore the slopes of Gargellen together with ski guide Günther. What fun. The most beautiful ride on this day is on the No. 1 from the Schafberg Hüsli mountain restaurant down to the Gargellen valley station.

As visibility slowly improves in the course of the late afternoon, we venture into the deep snow on a variant descent – a secured, but unprepared run. Günther shows little pity for my burning thighs and only says “Girl, you drive like you’re dragging your deer antlers on the ground! On your knees! Template!”. The friend on the snowboard grins gleefully, as he – who has been snowboarding for 20 years – always wants to make me believe how I can improve my skiing style. So be it. I make it to the boiler hut without falling, where we toast the snowy day with elderberry syrup and hunter’s tea. And then – thanks to elderberry syrup – the clouds gradually dissipate on our very last descent and reveal the panorama. Our day of skiing in Gargellen could not have ended better.

Snowshoe tour to the Grabs mountain inn

The morning weather check from our room at the Montafoner Hof in Tschagguns confirms the weather forecasts. Still cloudy mountain slopes and snowfall. In contrast to skiing, where good visibility is an advantage, this plays a subordinate role for today’s snowshoe tour. We take the bus to the valley station of the Golmerbahn – meeting point of the guided snowshoe tour to the Grabs mountain inn above Latschau. “BergAktiv” runs such guided group tours every day, the prices vary between 20 and 25 euros and include the rental price for snowshoes, poles and avalanche protection equipment.

After everyone has gathered their material, we trudge off. Latschau is a popular starting point for snowshoe, ski and toboggan tours. In addition to the ascent to the Grabs mountain inn, the fresh snow attracts day-trippers to the Gauertal. Many pull their sleds up to the Lindauer Hütte. The altitude difference you have mastered is rewarded with a phenomenal panorama on sunny days. We, on the other hand, fortify ourselves after the ascent with a well-deserved piece of apple strudel at the Grabs mountain inn and set fresh tracks in the virgin snow while hiking down the valley. A winter’s day as it is written in the book.

Practical information and tips for winter fun in the Montafon:

• The journey by train to Tschagguns/Schruns takes about 2.5 hours (1x change in Bludenz). Schampar practical and, above all, fast. Who wants to drive through the Arlberg to Tyrol?
• Spend the night, for example, at the Montafoner Hof in Tschagguns – good cuisine and conveniently located – or at the Löwen Hotel Schruns – stylish rooms and large spa area
• The day ticket for Gargellen costs 45.50 euros. The price overview of all Montafon ski resorts can be found here
• The Madrisa round trip is offered daily (as long as there is no danger of avalanches) and costs 85 euros including ski instructor
• There is currently an exhibition on Ernest Hemingway in the Haus des Gastes in Schruns – 90 years ago, the American writer took his first winter holiday in the Montafon. The experiences found their way into two of his world-famous literary works

Note: My winter weekend in the Montafon was supported by Montafon Tourism. Thank you very much for this! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.