Sunny Snowshoe Hike High Above Elm

Sunny hours are a rare commodity in Zurich in January. According to statistics, the past 30 days added up to just under 60 hours. Unsurprisingly, motivation for winter outings was pretty low—especially since the snow at higher elevations took its sweet time showing up. But when a few inches of fresh snow finally fell on Friday, it suddenly came back: the urge to go snowshoeing.

We opted for the Bischofalp snowshoe trail above Elm, in the farthest corner of the Glarus region. High above the valley, sunshine, fresh powder, and the promise of a steel-blue winter sky were calling. And we weren’t disappointed: the Bischofalp snowshoe trail more than lived up to our expectations.

Riding the Gondola Toward the Sun

Elm is the last village in the Sernftal, a side valley of the Glarus region. Getting there by public transit works like a charm. Even if the bus in Schwanden GL is packed to the last seat at first, only about half of the passengers stay on until the Elm Sportbahnen stop. Many ski tourers and snowshoers get off earlier in Matt and take the gondola up to the Walser settlement of Weissenberge, where another marked snowshoe trail awaits—one that’s a bit more demanding fitness-wise.

We, on the other hand, stay on until Elm Sportbahnen. While the valley floor in Elm gets hardly any sun this time of year, about halfway up the ride the gondola suddenly emerges into the light—and we happily squint into the first sunbeam.

Snowshoeing Into a Winter Paradise High Above Elm

It’s been almost ten years since we last explored this area. Back then, we hiked for three days through Europe’s oldest wildlife reserve, the Freiberg Kärpf, spent the night on the Bischofalp, and crossed the same area we’re covering today on the snowshoe trail. It was so foggy back then that I barely noticed the ski lifts. This time, we quickly leave the bustle around the Ämpächli mountain station behind and step straight into the quiet winter landscape.

For the first 1.5 kilometers, we follow a groomed path that also forms the signposted winter hiking route to the Berghotel Bischofalp. It’s a true pleasure stretch with a stunning panorama: the view sweeps from the jagged peaks of the Sardona Tectonic Arena to the dramatic end of the Sernftal valley, crowned by the striking 3,168-meter Hausstock. We make good progress and reach the junction by the hamlet of Hängstboden after just under 30 minutes. The small hay huts, darkened by the sun, make for a popular photo motif.

This is where the best section of the snowshoe hike begins. The signposted trail leads past the huts through a short stretch of forest and then continues across open, sunlit terrain toward the wildlife observation station. Step by step, we gain elevation until we finally reach the «Matthüttli», the highest point of the loop. Here we pause for a moment, take in the wide panorama, and enjoy the warm sunshine on our faces.

On the descent toward the Berghotel Bischofalp, another gorgeous view opens up, looking out over the snow-covered valley. Fresh powder crunches under our snowshoes, and we actually get to make the first tracks across untouched snow. By now, it’s crystal clear: it absolutely paid off to consider not only the route when choosing a snowshoe trail, but also snow depth and fresh-snow forecasts.

A Sunny Break at Berghotel Bischofalp

About 1 hour and 15 minutes after starting at the Ämpächli mountain station, we reach the sun terrace at Berghotel Bischofalp. It’s just before noon, so it’s already fairly busy—yet we still easily snag one of the coveted sunny seats. Service is friendly and quick, so we don’t have to wait long for our well-earned refuel. The menu features classics like homemade barley soup, but also intriguing dishes like the «Älplertäsche» (definitely recommended!), plus local specialties such as Chlitaler sausage. Make sure to save room for something sweet, though—the apricot cake with whipped cream is delicious, too!

Back to Ämpächli via the Winter Hiking Trail

To wrap up, we follow the same route as at the beginning, heading comfortably downhill along the groomed winter hiking trail back to Ämpächli. And yes—this outing definitely lifted our spirits. And hopefully we also soaked up enough vitamin D to get us through the next few days under Zurich’s blanket of fog.

Key Facts: Snowshoeing on the Bischofalp Snowshoe Trail

The map below shows the route of the Bischofalp snowshoe trail. The trail starts at the top station of the Elm–Ämpächli gondola and is signposted with route number 992 and clearly marked throughout.

For the first 1.5 kilometers, the snowshoe trail follows a packed winter hiking path. You don’t strictly need snowshoes for this section. On fresh-snow days, though, they’re handy since you won’t sink as deeply. At the hamlet of Hängstboden, the snowshoe trail branches off to the left and continues across open, sunlit terrain with beautiful views toward the Elmer 3,000-meter peaks, heading into Europe’s oldest wildlife reserve, the Freiberg Kärpf. Please pay attention to the signs and stay exclusively on the marked paths.

The route doesn’t present any particular technical challenges, as the trail climbs gradually. The only slightly steeper section comes after Matthüttli on the way down toward Bischofalp. The route can also easily be done in the opposite direction.

Starting point	Top station, Ämpächli gondola (1,485 m / 4,872 ft)
Getting there	Valley station accessible by public transit (Elm Sportbahnen stop)
Distance	5 kilometers (3.1 miles)
Elevation gain/loss	↗ 325 m (1,066 ft) ↘ 325 m (1,066 ft)
Duration	2:30 h
End point	Top station, Ämpächli gondola (1,485 m / 4,872 ft)
Food stop	Berghotel Bischofalp and Ämpächli mountain restaurant (both open daily during winter season through the end of March)

Practical Tips for Your Snowshoe Hike in Elm

• You can reach the valley station of the Elm–Ämpächli gondola (bus stop: Elm Sportbahnen) from Zurich in about 1 hour 45 minutes by train and bus. Getting there takes a bit longer with the «Glarner Sprinter»: you travel directly to Schwanden GL and save the extra transfer in Ziegelbrücke, but you’ll be on the go about 25 minutes longer.
• For the roughly five-kilometer loop, plan around three to four hours including breaks. Pure walking time is approximately two to two and a half hours—depending on snow conditions and your pace.
• Depending on snow, slopes, and weather conditions, the winter season runs from late November through late March. During this period, the Elm–Ämpächli gondola operates daily from 8:15 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. A round-trip ticket costs CHF 21 for adults. GA and Half-Fare cards are not valid.
• During winter season, both Berghotel Bischofalp and the Ämpächli mountain restaurant are also open daily. Both shine with a spacious sun terrace and a fantastic view of the opposing peaks of the Sardona Tectonic Arena.
• From the Ämpächli top station, a sled run of around four kilometers leads down into the valley to Elm. Sleds can be rented directly at the top station. If you’d like, you can round off your snowshoe tour with a fast ride down.