Sunshine Village – ski-in ski-out lodge in the Rockies

The longest ski season in the Rocky Mountains, an average of 9 meters of the finest champagne powder per season and the only ski-in and ski-out lodge in Banff National Park – that’s what Sunshine Village promises. Powerful arguments, in my opinion. Alberta’s largest and highest ski resort is located about 30 minutes southwest of Banff and is therefore easily accessible as a day trip from Banff. But it is worth not doing so. Sunshine Village is the only ski resort in Banff National Park that offers the opportunity to spend the night directly in the ski area. Not so self-evident when you consider that the regulations of the ski resorts within the national park are high and all building permits (every single tree that has to be felled) have to be approved by Parks Canada. A lengthy procedure. The reason why ski resorts could be built within the national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site at all has to do with the fact that the origins of most ski resorts go back to the first half of the 20th century, where the idea of protection of the national park was not yet given so much importance and at some point it just became naturalized in the sense of “this is how it has always been done here”. This is also the case in Sunshine Village. In the 1920s, the first trappers came to the area and built the Old Sunshine Lodge. The building still stands today and is used as a restaurant.

And so, after four days in Banff, I hoist my heavy suitcase into my jeep and head to Sunshine Village as my second stop. Guests staying overnight in the ski area can drop off their luggage at the valley station of the gondola lift and receive a lift pass for the ride up to the lodge, which is located at almost 2,200 m above sea level.

Snowshoe tour of Sunshine Meadows

At the valley station, Adrienne from White Mountain Adventures is already waiting for me. Today she wants to show me the quiet side of Sunshine Village. But first I take the gondola up to the ski area and from there take the Strawberry Express one station higher. I wouldn’t have expected the sun to be waiting for us in its most beautiful glory in a ski resort called Sunshine. The area up here is called Sunshine Meadows. The rolling hills of the plateau, now covered in deep snow, shine in early summer with the colourful splendour of blooming wildflowers. “Fabulous“, my Adrienne and I know that I have to get there in the summer months.

After we have strapped on the big snowshoes (with our small European snowshoes you would sink hopelessly into the feather-light powder snow here) we march to the first viewpoint. “We are now in British Columbia,” Adrienne said after a few meters. Oh, so I’m not only doing ski resort hopping here, but also provincial hopping. Sunshine Village is located right on the border with British Columbia. After a few meters, we have left the ski area far behind us and enjoy the peace and quiet of nature to the fullest. Between the fir trees, exciting animal tracks can be followed again and again and I get to know a new lichen species – the poisonous wolf lichen. The fun factor is not so short and so we master the steep descents at a rapid pace sliding on the seat of our pants. What fun. After almost three hours, we return to Sunshine Village with red cheeks and soaking wet pants.

Right in the middle of the action

Luckily, my suitcase is right next door at Sunshine Mountain Lodge. So I can change quickly and enjoy the last rays of sunshine of the afternoon in a deckchair. The lodge is located in the middle of the ski area and is its hub. Around the gondola and chairlifts there are various buildings with restaurants and guest rooms. I myself am accommodated in the newest part of the building and absolutely thrilled. The only thing that was forgotten in the planning are radiators. Heating is provided by the floor, which is not really suitable for drying wet ski pants. Instead, a fireplace provides cosy warmth. At around 4:00 p.m., when the slopes slowly settle down, people meet in the hot tub. The highlight is the Hot Tub Bingo – after all, entertainment should also be provided. In any case, I have a great time on my balcony from the collective sigh, if the missing number to complete the series is not mentioned.

There are several options for dinner. Casual dining is on the agenda at Chimney Corner, and fine dining is the order of the day at Eagle’s Nest. Those who prefer pub style can get chicken wings and burgers at Mad Trapper’s Saloon. Here you can also meet the employees who are enjoying their evening. Personally, I can recommend the menu at Eagle’s Nest. The dishes taste great!

The next morning I wake up with a view of the pale pink peaks. The highlight, however, is undoubtedly the breakfast, which is not served as a buffet, but à la carte. My goodness, there are such tempting good dishes on the menu that I would like to stay a week to test my way through. My choice is the pancakes. Divine!

Slopes for all tastes in the Sunshine Village

The very best thing about spending the night at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge right on the edge of the slopes is that you can take the first chairlift up the mountain without having to rush in the morning. Thanks to its special location directly on the continental divide between the Pacific and the Atlantic, Sunshine Village is often blessed with the so-called Champagne Poweder – the finest powder snow – and therefore enjoys great popularity. Unfortunately, the happiness of a fresh powder day is denied to us and yet we are ready punctually at nine o’clock at the Strawberry Express. Whizzing over freshly groomed slopes for the first time is also a pleasure.

The ski area is divided into three different mountains. Mount Standish provides access to the slightly more gently sloping terrain on the northern slope above Sunshine Village. But beware, don’t underestimate! One slope – it’s called “The Waterfall” – runs over a real waterfall. First of all, I have to swallow empty from this fact. The southern slope is called Lookout Mountain. The Great Divide Express provides access to the highest point of the ski area and crosses a piece of British Columbia in just a few metres. The panorama from up here is fantastic. One summit in particular stands out. With its striking shape, Mount Assiniboine reminds me of the Matterhorn at first glance. “Yes, of course,” I am confirmed, “it is also called the Matterhorn of the Rocky Mountains.” All right. Skiing with a view of the Matterhorn is also what Sunshine Village can do.

Goat’s Eye Mountain is the name of the third mountain, which mainly opens up expert areas. 37% of the ski area is black slopes, which is a lot by European standards. Experts are also challenged here. Up to 50% gradient and that over rocks is available on the Delirium Dive. The avalanche equipment, which is mandatory for this slope, can be rented at the snow sports school. This adventure is too daring for me and I stay true to the groomed slopes. But even here I find enough varied descents and thanks to the three differently oriented mountains, the sun shines in my face all day long. Sunshine truly lives up to its name during these two days. For the growling stomach, there are a total of around 10 different restaurants to choose from. So it doesn’t necessarily have to be burgers, although I can absolutely recommend The Sunshine Burger on the ground floor of the Daylodge.

The infrastructure, on the other hand, seems relatively old. Weather protection hoods and the footrests that we take for granted (I have only encountered two lifts without footrests in South Tyrol so far) are missing in Sunshine with a few exceptions. Next year, however, there will be a quantum leap here. The two-seater chairlift Tee-Pee-Town will be replaced by a high-speed four-seater chairlift including weather protection hood and heated seats for the next season.

The day ski pass costs 89 CAD – More information about the ski area can be found here: Sunshine Village

This trip was supported by Travel Alberta and Canusa – thank you very much! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.