Suomenlinna – defied wind and weather for once

The ships and lighthouses behind the window panes remind us where we are – on Suomenlinna, surrounded by a stormy sea and a merciless whistling wind. The brightly lit window panes almost seem like lifelines. In summer, the “Swedish Castle”, an 18th-century fortress (built by the Swedes to protect against the Russians), now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a popular picnic destination for Helsinki’s population. On this gray January day, it’s hard to imagine.

During the 20-minute crossing (ferry connection from Kauppatori market square / in winter approx. every 40 minutes) we warmed up in the heated interior. Because of all the fog and drizzle, we hardly noticed the passing coastal landscape and islets. Actually, everything screams for a cozy museum afternoon in Helsinki, but once I’ve set my mind to something, even nasty weather doesn’t stop me.

Suomenlinna is made up of several islands that are connected by bridges and form an independent district of Helsinki. The islands are not only a historical site, but also about 850 people live here. An exciting and unique constellation. Even on this gray day, when only a few tourists visit the island, the center does not seem deserted, but very inviting.

On Suomenlinna, in addition to the visitor centre, there are three different museums that charge admission. Walking through the facilities is free of charge (without a visit to the museum). We decide to take a walk along the 6 kilometers of walls. On the way, the buildings provide a welcome splash of color in the gray Finnish winter landscape (which should actually be white…). Otherwise, we’re fighting the wind. The further we move away from the center, the more uncomfortable it becomes. On the other hand, we understand quite well why the fortress builders built Hobbit-like houses. Such a covered house looks really inviting in this weather.

At some point, however, we reach our limits. The wind has taken its toll. Our hands and feet are frozen. It is absolutely incomprehensible to me how the friend survived this without a cap… Arriving at the King’s Gate, we make our way back towards the center.

Before we take the ferry back to Helsinki, we take a sweet break in the ultra-cozy Café Vanille. We are lucky and get hold of one of the four small tables. With tea, coffee and cake we slowly thaw out again.