Paradise in winter

In Switzerland alone, there are so many towns, valleys and regions to discover that I have rarely chosen the same destination twice for a weekend trip. But once you’ve found paradise, there’s nothing wrong with going back to it – at least I think so. And so, two weeks ago, we made our way again to Ftan in the Lower Engadine.

Update 2018: Paradise has changed its concept and now functions as Club Privé – it is still possible to book rooms as a non-Club member.

On our first visit, we almost missed it and instead wandered through Ftan with a wheeled suitcase and navigation point on Google Maps. At the second attempt, the journey went smoothly. This time, the transport service was already waiting for us at the Scuol train station, so that we didn’t have to drag the ski bags across the mountain village. We combined the day of arrival with a winter hike in Val Sinestra and deposited our luggage until the agreed pick-up time at Scuol train station.

Back at Hotel Paradies

With red cheeks and tired legs, we reach the Hotel Paradies at the same time as the last rays of sunshine of the day, which make everything shine in a golden shimmer. I already raved about the qualities of the 5-star hotel, which scores with its family atmosphere, after my first visit. Returning feels like coming home. Adventurous as we are, we didn’t want to sleep in a comfortably warm bed this time, but wanted to spend a cool night outside in the garden. The Hotel Paradies has come up with a special place to stay – a paradise igloo. With hot water bottles, candles and grog, we would have been taken care of here as well and would certainly have had a lot to talk about. Unfortunately, the snow didn’t play along this year. It was enough for the cross-country ski trail, which runs directly behind the hotel. He was too late for the igloo. But as the saying goes, “all good things come in threes” and we have a good reason to travel to Ftan a third time.

But the alternative to the igloo was quite promising. On our last visit we had a room on the ground floor. This time it was one floor higher and thrilled us with the unique panoramic view of the Lower Engadine mountain scenery. Great!

Breakfast Happiness

Even in winter, a day in paradise begins with the view out of the window. Today we want to hit the slopes. But before that, we first feast our way through the phenomenal breakfast buffet. Dried meat from Hatecke, Ftaner Mutschli, homemade muesli and crispy rolls. Just like you would imagine a Sunday morning.

Ski resort Motta Naluns

The hotel’s own ski shuttle takes us from the Hotel Paradies directly to the valley station of the Prui chairlift. Practical, so you don’t have to follow any timetables and can circulate back and forth between the ski resort and the hotel as you please. There’s a lot going on on the slopes. We traverse from Prui towards Jonvrai and from there high up Salaniva, the second highest point of the ski area at 2,710 m above sea level. This descent “catches”. Hardly any people and a great view over the whole ski area. At noon we fortify ourselves in the pub Alpetta, which is unmistakably located in the middle of the slope near Jonvrai. With alpetta salad, burgers and a Power Limes drink (limes, ginger, cane sugar, honey, fresh mint – thumbs up for that!) we fortify ourselves for the second half of the ski day. Suddenly rising clouds, nasty winds and deteriorating visibility make us shorten them in favor of the wellness area in the Hotel Paradise.

In a hot pot

And that’s where I end up in the hot pot. It’s “an outdoor experience”, we are warned, before I tentatively put the tips of my feet into the hot tub. Only after proper readjustment with snow lying on the terrace, I dare to go all the way in.

Warmed up and relaxed, I make myself comfortable in the bar area with a hot chocolate and an exciting book. This view inspires me every time.

Something Fine Dinner

As with our first visit, our second stay in paradise ends with delicious food at the “Charn Alpina” meat factory. The exquisite pieces also come from the Hatecke butcher’s shop in Scuol and are cleverly prepared by chef Daniel Stütz. This time I choose the fillet of alpine suckling veal, sautéed spinach and creamed gratin with mountain potatoes from the organic farm La Sorts in the Albula Valley.

Practical information/tips for a winter weekend in Ftan

• The cross-border ski area of Samnaun-Ischgl is ideal as a day trip (journey by public transport approx. 1.5 hours)
• The cross-country ski trail runs directly behind the Hotel Paradies – it couldn’t be more practical
• A leisurely winter hike leads from Motta Naluns via Prui to Ftan

Note: Our stay in Ftan was supported by Hotel Paradise. Thank you very much for this! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.