Wahiba Sands – Desert Camp – off to the desert of Oman

Sand. Sand everywhere. And actually, I don’t like that at all. Later, at home, I remember why. The yellow and red grains are stubborn fellows and trickle towards me when I unpack my suitcase. But here in the Wahiba Sands, I can generously overlook my dislike for a moment. Thousands and thousands of yellow, white and red grains of sand have created a landscape here in eastern Oman over a length of about 180 km and a width of about 80 km, which corresponds to our picture-book idea of what a desert should look like. Gently rolling dune landscapes that shimmer in shades of red and yellow depending on the light. Ramlat al Wahiba is the pocket-sized desert. Suitable for desert beginners like me. The valleys between the large dune ranges are bustling with activity. Bedouins circulate here, who have long since swapped the camel for four-wheel drive vehicles in everyday life. In these valleys, about 15 to 20 kilometers away from al Wasil at the northern end of the Wahiba Sands, there are also some tourist camps, all of which want to fulfill the dream of 1001 nights for the western guest.

Drive through the Wahiba Sands Desert in Oman

We also wanted to experience the magic of a starry desert night and decided to stay at the Desert Nights Camp. During the research, it was not easy to keep track of where each camp is, as they all have similar names. We almost ended up in the wrong camp because we arrived an hour early at the turnoff in Al Wasil and a group was gathering there. We stood in line and let the air out of the tires (essential when driving into the desert, even with four-wheel drive vehicles). It was only after the air was out that we realized with horror that this group was going to another camp. Without further ado (and death-defying) we decided to tackle the 15 km drive into the desert on our own. Something I could never have imagined in advance. Alone in the desert? I?! Certainly not. But on site, everything was only half as wild and adventurous as feared. The fairway was clearly visible throughout, and when the camp appeared in front of us, I was sobered by how smoothly the ride went. Of course, this depends on the weather. During or after a sandstorm, the situation can present itself quite differently.

Overnight in a desert camp

The camp lived up to our expectations. The tents are nicely set up and the feared constant sound from some weirdos who do dune bashing all evening did not happen at all. We took a camel ride up the dunes of the Wahiba Sands at sunset and were amazed at two things. Our camel guide was non-stop on WhatsApp and walked barefoot through the sand. I can understand it. At least he doesn’t have any sand in his shoes afterward.

Information about the Desert Nights Camp

• Costs: 1 night in a 2-room tent for 2 adults: around 350 CHF
• Half board and jeep ride on dune for sunset, included in the nightly rate
• Sunset camel safari for 2 people (we were alone) around 300 CHF
• more information about the camp: Desert Nights Camp (partner link)
• Directly behind it is the Arabian Oryx Camp as an alternative
• The turn-off into the desert is at the sand-colored mosque in Al Wasil (about 500 m after the Al Wasil place sign if you come from Sur). At the junction there is also a tire shop where you can let the air out for the trip into the desert and then refill it afterward. We paid 500 Baisa – but this is actually a special price for the guests of the Nomadic Desert Camp (where we almost went mistakenly).