Weekend tip: spring skiing in St. Moritz

Sometimes it takes several attempts before something grabs you. For example, I felt the same way until last weekend with spring skiing. For a long time, I was of the opinion that skis belong on the screed when you can have a picnic in a crocus-strewn meadow with the sun on your face and the cheerful birdsong in your ears. But despite the wonderful spring weather in Zurich, I bravely packed my cap, gloves and ski boots into my bag last Friday and marched to the train station with my ski bag over my shoulder.

Allegra Engadin

Just in time for the kitschy evening light, we reached our host after an entertaining drive, the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains in St. Moritz Bad, which visually bears a striking resemblance to the Grand Budapest Hotel. The traditional Grand Hotel des Bains is located directly at the Mauritius spring, at the source of St. Moritz. The magnificent hotel was reopened at the beginning of 2002 after a long period of renovation by the luxury hotel chain Kempinski. After last year’s wonderful stay at Kempinski Palace Portoroz, I was curious to see how the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains presented itself. What I appreciate about Kempinski Hotels is that they skilfully combine luxury with casualness and demonstrate good taste in terms of combining modernity and tradition.

Here in St. Moritz, too, architectural sensitivity was demonstrated during the redesign. The interior is classically elegant. Light-flooded rooms and chandeliers set accents. We start the evening as it should be – with champagne and mountain views! Afterwards we have a good time at Sra Bua. In addition to a Thai signature menu, the Asian restaurant has a wide selection of sushi on the menu at acceptable prices.

A breakfast for gourmets

The next morning, as we walk to the breakfast buffet, we are greeted with the words “Good morning, our breakfast buffet has been awarded several times as the best in Switzerland”. But now! Of course, I parry such an announcement with a counter-question. “Who awarded them?”, I want to know. This point is not on the lady’s tongue right now. We finally found out – it was the magazine “Bilanz”. Butter with the fish – the breakfast buffet is sensational. Local mountain cheese, freshly shaved ham, crusty bread and freshly squeezed orange juice. It’s my thing. Thumbs up.

Corviglia – off to the slopes

Then it’s time for the sporty part of the day. We pick up our equipment in the ski room, which is integrated into the sports shop. It is only a stone’s throw from the Kempinski to the valley station of the Signalbahn. Less than five minutes later, we are already in the gondola and ski up to the Corviglia ski area. A first for me. Of course, we want to go very high first and head straight for the Piz Nair. The view from up there is phenomenal and so is the descent down to the Lej de la Pesch. I’m totally blown away! The Corviglia offers what I like – wide slopes and a variety of interesting runs. In addition, the slopes are perfectly groomed on this day. Hardly any ice spots and a great grip. The slopes tend to be easy to ski. Even black runs only have sections that are really steep. Americans next to us take note of this fact a bit irritated: “this black slope looks like a blue one”, says one next to us on the lift. When I compare the level of difficulty with that in Canada, I understand the Lord’s statement. The slopes here are not really “black”, but for me that’s completely fine. Surprisingly, even the valley run to Celerina is of the best quality. Only at the very bottom I meet the snow I hate, otherwise no signs of suls.

Back at the Kempinski, we treat ourselves to a tarte flambée as an afternoon snack in the bar before we crumble into the Kempinski Spa. For me, an alpine massage is on the program and the boyfriend is having a good time at the pool. I’m always a bit torn when it comes to massages, whether I want the pressure to be “relaxed” or “firm” and usually opt for “something in between”. This time I probably would have liked to be “relaxed” better and have to bite my teeth more than once to not let out a sound of pain. But probably all muscle knots are definitely solved now. (Of course, I could have just said “hey not so firm” in between, but you know proud and stuff)

The second evening we spend in the restaurant Les Saisons, which has some special house creations on the menu in addition to good meat. I highly recommend the fondue potato ravioli with Perigord truffle and Gruyère foam. What a delicious combination.

Corvatsch – flying
high

On Sunday morning, it’s time to go really high. The Kempinski is not only located right next to the Signalbahn, but also right next to the legendary Hahnensee slope from Corvatsch. The bus ride to the valley station of the Corvatsch cable car takes ten minutes. The bus stop is also right in front of the hotel and during the winter season buses run every 10 minutes in the direction of Corvatsch. The Corvatsch is oriented to the north and is quite a shady slope in winter. Now, in March, he’s benefiting from that. The sun is now strong enough to shine on these corners as well and the slopes have been spared during the cold months and are now in top shape.

Funnily enough, we missed all the events that took place in St. Moritz this weekend because of all the spring skiing. The Swiss Avalanche Dog Champion was crowned on the Muottas Muragl, the Snowpark Corvatsch was the venue for the Freeski World Cup and the Music Summit took place in St. Moritz. At least we got a tiny bit of the club music. In the bar of the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains, a DJ also set the mood. Apart from that, St. Moritz also has a lot to offer for those who have not yet been gripped by the desire for spring skiing.

Info and tips:

• Double room bed / breakfast from 500 CHF
• Tagesskipass Corviglia / Corvatsch 75 CHF
• Ski pass for hotel guests from 2 nights 35 CHF
• The most beautiful view over the Upper Engadine can be found from Muottas Muragl
• Be sure to travel by train – the Albula trip with the RHB is always an experience

Note: I have been invited by the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.