Oeschinensee in winter – hike on the UNESCO Ice Walk

Note: this article was written in cooperation with BLS

Lake Oeschinen is undoubtedly one of the best-known excursion magnets in the Bernese Oberland – and rightly so. I, too, am impressed by the impressive mountain scenery in the middle of the Jungfrau-Aletsch World Heritage area and the unique atmosphere in this “cauldron” in front of the Blüemlisalp every time. This was also the case the other day – when I was able to experience the frozen Lake Oeschinen from a different perspective on the UNESCO Ice Walk on a picture-perfect winter’s day.

My excursion starts on a Tuesday early in the morning at Zurich train station. I use the train ride to work through a few things on my to-do list. So the decision to spontaneously swap the office chair for a mountain backdrop on a Tuesday due to the perfect weather conditions is not too significant.

About 1.5 hours later, my father gets on the RegioExpress Lötschberger in Thun, which takes us directly to Kandersteg – the starting point for our trip to Lake Oeschinen. Since my parents live in the Gürbetal, it is obvious to combine a trip to the “Bernbiet” with a meeting. And since they like to be out in nature just as much as I do, such an appointment can be perfectly combined with a hike.

Winter hike via Läger to Lake Oeschinen

From Kandersteg train station, a signposted path leads in about 10 minutes on foot via Bahnhofstrasse and Federal Councillor Adolf Ogi-Strasse to the valley station of the Kandersteg Oeschineensee gondola. The gondola lift operates daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. during the winter season. Due to its basin location, Lake Oeschinen does not get too much sunshine in the winter months, especially in the morning hours. If you want to escape the foggy grey up here and fill up on vitamin D, you should aim for the afternoon hours – then the sun has worked its way past the steep mountain flanks and brings some light to the end of the valley. However, we do not primarily want to worship the sun, but enjoy the silence. And the morning hours are perfect for that. Next to us, only a handful of ice fishermen and skiers are waiting in front of the valley station shortly before the start of operations.

As an alternative to the gondola lift, it has been possible to overcome the almost 500 metres in altitude between the valley and mountain stations with snowshoes on the newly opened snowshoe trail. So far, however, the little snow this season has not really been able to assert itself on the southern slope and accordingly the snowshoe feeling is not (yet) really there. Therefore, we opt for the more leisurely option and let ourselves be chauffeured by gondola to the starting point of our winter hike at the Oeschinen mountain station. From there, two winter hiking trails lead towards the lake – one path first leads uphill and then leads you to the lake via the Läger viewpoint (approx. 45 minutes walking time). The other takes you directly to the shore of Lake Oeschinen in 30 minutes.

We opt for the longer loop via Läger and trudge alone through the wintry landscape on freshly groomed paths. The highlight of this section is the somewhat hidden viewpoint next to the restaurant zur Sennhütte (which is closed in winter). Here there is a wonderfully placed bench with a view of the frozen Oeschinensee.

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In winter, take the Ice Walk around Lake Oeschinen

From the Läger vantage point, it takes less than 15 minutes on foot to reach the shores of Lake Oeschinen. The last time I was here in winter, the ice was frozen black and we were able to ice skate – a rare event. If there is enough precipitation – in the form of snow – then Lake Oeschinen is quickly covered by a white layer in winter. This can then no longer be experienced on ice skates, but on foot on the signposted Ice Walk. There are two circular loops signposted. The shorter round takes about 25 minutes – the longer round takes around 45 minutes.

Either way, it’s worth dressing warmly for this. The temperatures drop noticeably as soon as you enter the lake basin. And the further we walk across this white plain, the more surreal the landscape around us appears. While at the starting point the lake almost sinks a bit in view of the mighty rock faces of the Blüemlisalp massif, on the opposite side – the rock faces now behind us – we are presented with a surprising expanse. Wow! What a beautiful panorama. According to the tracks, we are not the only ones on the lake this morning. We are puzzled as to which animal has moved so purposefully across the lake here – a hare? A marten? We don’t quite agree.

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On the south shore we meet a few ice fishermen who bravely endure in the freezing cold until a fish bites. If you also want to try your luck as a fisherman, you can acquire a corresponding patent (daily or weekly patent) in the Oeschinensee restaurant or in the Bärgstübli at the mountain station. You either have to bring your own utensils (fishing rod, ice drill) or rent them in Kandersteg.

Despite the brisk pace of marching, the cold is slowly making itself felt here as well. Luckily, it’s not far to the pleasantly warm dining room at the Berghotel Oeschinensee. In addition to some Swiss classics, the menu also includes a selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes. We opt for a portion of barley soup with smoked sausage and a hearty cheese slice “Oeschinensee”

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Then it’s off in the sunshine on the winter hiking trail – now on the direct route – back to the Oeschinen mountain station. There we treat ourselves to a siesta on a sun-drenched bench before we make our way home. In any case, we will remember this magical peace and space that we were able to experience on this day on Lake Oeschinen. And the realisation that even well-frequented excursion destinations retain their charm.

Practical tips for your winter trip to Lake Oeschinen

The following map shows the route of our winter hike from the Oeschinen mountain station to Lake Oeschinen and back, including the round on the UNESCO Ice Walk. The tour includes an ascent of 140 meters over a distance of about 7.5 kilometers. The pure hiking time is just under two hours. The trail is groomed throughout and easy to walk on – and therefore also easily doable for families with children. Alternatively, there is also a toboggan run parallel to the winter hiking trail (direct path) – so you can also take your sledge with you. The toboggan run from the lake towards the valley, on the other hand, is closed until further notice due to the risk of rockfall.

An overview of all winter activities around Lake Oeschinen can be found under the following link: Lake Oeschinen in winter

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Winter operations at Lake Oeschinen run daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. until March 22. The cost of the gondola ride is 28 CHF for adults (ascent and descent) With GA or Half-Fare travelcard you pay half price. Snowshoes and sleds can be rented at Intersport in Kandersteg if required. All further information can be found here: Winter excursion Oeschinensee

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