Action in Sölden – on the trail of James Bond

“Are you going to Sölden?” asks a young gentleman with a heavy suitcase at the bus stop in Ötztal Downtown, photographing at the same time the less than idyllic scenery consisting of Sparkasse, Volg, parking lot, bridal shop and Aktiv Hotel Ötztal. Admittedly, I also hesitated at first when I could only decipher Obergurgl on the address. Upper-what? But yes, the posted timetable confirms that the bus also stops in Sölden. We are on a special mission on our way to Sölden. At the moment, there is action in the longest side valley of the Tyrol. January and February are all about the filming of the new James Bond film “Spectre”. Of course, we want to take a close look at the possible key scenes of the film in advance. Unfortunately, it wasn’t enough for a 007 compliant Aston Martin for the journey and so we stand at the bus stop at the Ötztal train station and wait for the connecting bus. The journey by public transport would actually be absolutely uncomplicated and with one change in Ötztal even with ski luggage easily doable. The only drawback, the bus operator apparently assumes that all ski tourists arrive by car, and travels the route with a low-floor bus without a luggage rack or additional luggage trolley. A bit awkward. But we successfully master this challenge and reach a snow-covered Sölden after just under an hour’s drive through the Ötztal.

Alpine Lifestyle

To describe Sölden as pretty in itself would be an exaggeration. But one should not judge too hastily, because away from the après-ski cheers at the Giggijoch valley station, the winter sports resort offers some noteworthy restaurants and accommodation as well as a fantastic starting point for enthusiastic winter sports enthusiasts. The Central, the only 5-star hotel in Sölden, is part of the Sölden-Hochsölden ski lift company, which was founded in 1955 by the Falkner, Riml and Gurschler families. Since its opening in 1969, the hotel has been continuously expanded and renovated. The next conversion phase is already in the pipeline. From spring onwards, the main house is given a new lease of life.

Hospitality is very important here and we get to feel it from the first minute. After the courteous check-in and a welcome drink, we take a look at our junior suite, which has been renovated as part of the last renovation phase. I like the restrained rustic-modern design with the light wooden floor right away. The highlight is the cleverly staged bathtub behind a glass wall with a view of the room. The greatest possible sleeping comfort is also ensured, as the guest can choose from an upholstery menu. I don’t miss the opportunity and order a pine wood cushion for particularly sweet dreams.

Due to constant change and growth, Das Central offers a colourful potpourri of different room categories and styles. If you like it eccentric, I recommend booking the “Junior Suite Surprise”.

As a rule, the rooms are offered with half board. In addition to hospitality, culinary delights are the second important pillar of the Central. In the cosy Ötztaler Stube, award-winning chef Gottfried Prantl enchants guests with refined dishes. If you have booked half board, you can enjoy this exquisite culinary art with a surcharge of 16 euros. My tip to all guests: Be sure to make a reservation for an evening in the Ötztaler Stube. In the Feinspitz restaurant, half-board guests are spoiled with a 5-course menu of choice as well as once a week with a 6-course gourmet menu from the award-winning kitchen. The only criticism of this restaurant is the size of the hall. A little more intimacy would certainly boost the dining experience. The dessert buffet, which is served on Fridays, is absolutely top class. Mamma Mia, what a treat!

The next morning starts where we left off the night before – in the Feinspitz restaurant. The breakfast buffet is so extensive that I am a bit overwhelmed at the beginning, which I should now put on my plate. In the most beautiful winter weather, we don’t want to waste the time unnecessarily long with breakfast, but quickly on the slopes. But with this selection of delicacies, the decision is difficult. I find it sensational that great importance is attached to the freshness of the products and that fruits, vegetables as well as egg dishes and meat products are freshly prepared in front of the guest.

3 three-thousand-metre peaks in one fell swoop

Well fortified, we are ready to tackle the mighty three-thousand-metre peaks of the Ötztal Alps. On our first visit to Sölden, in November 2013, we hadn’t seen anything of the panorama due to cloudy mountain slopes. The Central offers its guests a free shuttle service to the two cable cars Gaislachkogel and Giggijoch. In addition, each room has its own ski locker. The best organisation for an uncomplicated ski holiday.

On nice days, it’s worth getting up early. We are shortly after eight at the Gaislachkogelbahn and no one is far and wide. There can also be advantages to spending holidays in the après-ski mecca. Most party-goers don’t like to get back on the slopes until around noon. We, on the other hand, have the pleasure of conquering the freshly groomed slopes single-handedly. Which track did James Bond take? At least the Gaislachkogelbahn, the Gletscherstrasse and the Rettenbachferner are among the locations of the filming. For us, it’s a little higher up to the Schwarze Schneid and the Tiefenbachkogel, two of Sölden’s BIG 3 – three three-thousand-metre peaks that are accessible by cable cars. On the way back to the valley, it is worth taking a swing via Rotkogljoch to aim for slope 11 to the Gampe Thaya. In 2014, the alpine hut was awarded the “Genuss Hütte” seal of approval by the Genuss Region Austria and invites you to take a relaxing breather (my order tip: hot chocolate with fresh alpine milk).

Culinary delights

At the beginning of January, the spectacular ice Q – the third in the BIG3 – was closed for a few days for the filming of the James Bond film. But restaurant manager Valentino Schwarz takes his vow of silence seriously and doesn’t want to tell me what dramatic scenes will take place here. My mental cinema sometimes fantasizes wild stories together. Maybe Mister 007 is toasting his Bond lady with a Pino 3ooo to win against the villain? The three-region wine (Austria, Germany and South Tyrol) is stored here in ice Q at 3,048 m above sea level in barrique barrels. In addition to the spectacular mountain panorama, the sparkling glass cube also knows how to inspire with its alpine cuisine. If you only have a short time, it’s best to visit the lounge, where tasty appetizers are served. If you have a little more time, you can make yourself comfortable in the restaurant and let yourself be seduced by a culinary summit meeting. I confess, after this lunch I took the gondola down.

Power the Tank

If you return to Central after an action-packed day, it is best to put yourself in the experienced hands of the wellness team or relax in the Venezia Water World. As a purist, the water world is a bit too pompous for me. The variety of different saunas, steam baths, experience showers, etc. is impressive, but also has its pitfalls. Due to the internationality of the guests, there is a nude area and a non-nude area in the sauna area. Of course, we immediately put our foot in the mouth and are taken out of the sauna by the lifeguard with a raised index finger – I had the bikini on under the bath towel and overlooked that this is the nude area, only to be “disturbed” a few minutes later – we are now correctly in the non-nude area in the steam grotto – by a gentleman in Adam’s costume. Kind of an exhilarating concept.

I was able to really recharge my batteries in the massage. The range of spa treatments is extensive. In the case of the signature treatments, Vinoble Cosmetics is used to match the hotel concept and the enthusiasm for fine wines. After a back and forth – spoilt for choice – I decided on an Alpienne salt stone massage (118 euros) with a preceding natural salt peeling with arnica, honey stone pine and St. John’s wort. My tired muscles reveled in seventh heaven and my skin still feels baby-soft today.

Information and tips about Sölden

• Junior suite during the winter season incl. half board from 242 Euro per person
• Day ski pass Sölden 52 Euro (incl. 2.50 Euro for Keycard)
• It is recommended to make a reservation for lunch at ice Q
• Every Wednesday there is a fine dining “Summit Dinner” at ice Q (tasting menu 108 euros per person).
• If you don’t have an Aston Martin, nor do you want to take the extremely practical low-floor bus, Das Central will of course also pick you up at the Ötztal train station.

Note: I was invited by the Hotel Das Central for a winter trip to Sölden – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.