Appenzell – a feast for the eyes and the palate

Nestled in gently rolling hills with lush green meadows and surrounded by interspersed centuries-old farms, the village of Appenzell appears in front of us. If you arrive by train like we did, you will experience a kind of deceleration on the outward journey. From Gossau, the Appenzell Railway winds leisurely curve by curve through the Appenzellerland and presents an idyllic landscape at the foot of the Säntis through the train window. Appenzell Stadt is the capital of the half-canton of Innerrhoden and, with just under 6,000 inhabitants, a tranquil village and definitely not a city.

Small but mighty – Appenzell

Customs and old crafts are still very important in Appenzell and so it is worthwhile to take a walk through the narrow streets not only because of the neat brightly painted wooden houses. It’s hard to get lost in the city of Appenzell. It takes five minutes to walk from the train station to the main street, where most of the shops are located.

We start our tour of the village at the stately church, which is located between Sitter and Hauptgasse. The cemetery behind it is also beautiful with an unobstructed view of the hilly landscape. Past the houses decorated with elaborate façade paintings and the tiny Holy Cross Chapel, which was rebuilt after the devastating village fire of 1560, we walk to the Landsgemeindeplatz. This traditional form of direct democracy is only carried out in this form in Appenzell, Innerrhoden and Glarus. In the other cantons (originally eight), the majority of the Landsgemeinde was replaced by a ballot box. Every year, the population of Appenzell meets on this square and votes on the cantonal proposals. Another feast for the eyes on the main street is the striking town hall.

On Weissbadstrasse there is another strikingly yellow-painted house, on the façade of which an Appenzell year with traditional clothes and customs is depicted.

Half a day is enough to get an overview of the village and stroll leisurely through the alleys.

Appenzeller cheese, beaver, boiled sausage

Customs and traditions are reflected not only in the architecture and the numerous craft workshops, but of course also in the food and drink. In this way, the village walk can be perfectly combined with short culinary stops.

Mösler’s Käsewelt | Hauptgasse 13

Mösler’s Käsewelt is located directly on the corner of Hauptgasse / Hirschgasse. Of course, the famous Appenzeller cheese is sold, but also various alpine cheeses from the Alpstein. We taste our way through all age groups of Appenzell cheese, from mild to recent. My favorite is somewhere between the two extremes. I don’t like too recent. Here you can also buy the Alpenzeller (someone had a very clever name idea) from Alp Rainhütten and the Seealpchäs from Seealpsee.

Specialties Metzg Weather | Hirschengasse 4

Just a stone’s throw away is the Metzg Wetter, where local meat specialties are on display. We try the Appenzeller Mostbröckli, which is traditionally made from beef. Delicious!

Böhli Bakery Confectionery | Engelgasse 9

Definitely, I liked it best in the Böhli bakery. We taste our way through the entire range of sweet Appenzell delicacies such as the Beaver, the Chrempfli and the Appenzeller Stengeli filled with Alpine bitters. The Appenzeller Alpenbitter is also produced locally and is one of the best-known spirits in Switzerland. But my favorite drink from the Appenzellerland are Flauder and the Iisfee – by the way, there are also sorbet variations to buy (I discovered the sorbet at the Wasserauen train station, but I was assured that you can also find it in the shops on the Hauptgasse).

Restaurant Hotel Löwen | Hauptgasse 25

At the end of our culinary walk, we treat ourselves to a hearty Appenzeller Siedwurst with Chäsmaggerone. En Guete!

Idiosyncratic picnic areas and three minutes of everyday life in Appenzell

If you stock up on delicacies and are looking for a cozy picnic spot near the village, you might discover this table on the banks of the Sitter and take a comfortable seat there. But beware, the Appenzell artist Roman Signer had a lot of mischief breathing down his neck during the installation. Every three to four minutes, the harmless-looking table leans into an inclined position and splashes water from its legs. You wouldn’t understand the world for a moment, would you? Another art object by Roman Signer, the “Turntable”, is located on the main street opposite the Hotel Café Adler. If you constantly live with the feeling that time is running out, you will find peace of mind on this disc. The disc needs three minutes for a whole revolution and you can believe me – three minutes feels reeeeee

If you are now really in the mood for a trip to the smallest main town in Switzerland and would like to learn more about the village and its traditions, then I can recommend the free village tour.

Note: My stay in Appenzellerland was supported by Appenzell Tourism. Thank you very much for this! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.