Edinburgh – Scotland travel tip for beginners
Bravehart and Amy Macdonald have lit a Scotland fire in me. The film Bravehart with its fascinating landscape shots and Amy Mcdonald with her Scottish accent. With a total of 15 regions and diverse landscapes from the Highlands to the Isle of Skye, Scotland offers travel fodder for a whole year. But for now, it should be a city trip with us. To get a taste of it, so to speak.
Traveled
We started our trip to the Scottish capital with a premiere. For the very first time, I had booked a flight with easyJet. Normally, the low-cost airline always gets the short end of the stick for me, because with the exception of very few destinations (London, for example), it doesn’t fly anything from Zurich. However, since the Swiss and the Edelweiss only fly to Edinburgh in summer, there was no direct flight from Zurich on offer. Since the airfares (and the price for a checked piece of luggage (!)) from Geneva were much cheaper than from Basel and for me the train journey GA had no cost influence, we decided to take the easyJet flight Geneva – Edinburgh. The airline fulfilled its promise of punctuality on the outbound and return flights. If I had to complain about something, it would be the very narrow seat spacing and the lack of space for hand luggage and jackets. If I’m going to pay for a piece of luggage, then I think it’s unfair if I have to leave my thick winter jacket on my knees for two hours just because many people disregard the baggage rules and take too much hand luggage into the cabin. Well.
After a two-hour flight and an hour’s time difference (a total of one hour later), we land at Edinburgh Airport on time. What’s the best way to get to the city centre from here? The quickest option is to take the Airlink bus, which goes to Waverley Bridge in the city centre. A one-way ticket costs £4, and if you buy the return ticket at the same time, you pay £7. The journey takes about 40 minutes. The second option is the tram. It runs through the city centre to York Place (near the Playhouse). A one-way ticket costs £5. Please note, tram ticket machines only accept change (no notes) or credit cards. On the buses, with the exception of the Airlink (one-way £1.50), the ticket can only be purchased from the driver and no change is given (exact amount to be provided). Since this small change stuff was too stupid for us, we were only on foot in the city.
Slept
Ben Cruachan Guest House | 17 McDonald Road
Edinburgh has countless great B&B’s. It is not so easy to pick out the right one from the abundance of offers. After some back and forth, we chose the Ben Cruachan Guest House on Leith Street (towards the harbour) and within walking distance of York Place and the Playhouse. Unfortunately, the actual hostess stayed during our stay on vacation. But there is nothing wrong with the “deputy”. Our room, although not particularly large, was tastefully decorated and had its own bathroom. The real strength of the Guest House is undoubtedly the breakfast. From porridge (with a dash of whiskey if desired) to pancakes and a full Scottish program, there is everything your heart desires. And each one is freshly prepared.
Attractions in Edinburgh
Walk the Mile |
Edinburgh has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. On the one hand, the medieval “Old Town” with the so-called Royal Mile consisting of the streets Castle Hill, High Street and Canongate. On the other hand, the Georgian “New Town”, which begins at Princes Street, is a prime example of urban development. The best place to start a walk along the Royal Mile is on Castle Hill. It is worth taking a look at the branching side alleys – the so-called “Close” – in between. Some offer a surprise or two. A detour to St. Giles Cathedral is also included. If you want to photograph the magnificent architecture inside, you can buy a photo permit for £2.
Shopping Spree |
Edinburgh is diverse, but not sprawling. If you cross the railway infrastructure on one of the three bridges from the Old Town, you will end up in the New Town. Shopping fans will get their money’s worth along George Street. I was not spared from this and fell in love with a handbag of the Cambridge Satchel Company while window shopping. If you are interested in the topic of urban planning, you will also come across some pearls in this district. Under the direction of architect James Craig, standards were set here in the 18th century that attracted attention far beyond England.
Arts & Culture |
The Scottish capital offers a wide range of museums of all kinds. Among them, for example, are some interesting galleries with modern art. But even for those who are not primarily interested in art, a visit to the museum is worthwhile. The National Museum of Scotland and the National Portrait Gallery, for example, delight with their outstanding architecture. In addition, admission to most exhibition rooms is free of charge (with the exception of special exhibitions).
Geistergeschichten |
An Edinburgh without scary stories? Unthinkable. The city is full of mystical stories and dark legends. One of the most popular tourist activities is the ghost tours, which start at dusk on the Royal Mile and then dive into the dark corners. Since I’m admittedly a huge shithead, I didn’t do it, but instead took a look at one of the most famous cemeteries in daylight. The idyllic Greyfriars Kirkyard is the place where some prominent Edinburghers are buried. Among them is Bobby’s grave. The police dog is said to have stayed at the grave of his owner, John Gray, for a full thirteen years.
Bird’s eye view |
Thanks to the numerous hills, Edinburgh offers fantastic viewpoints. The classic here is Calton Hill immediately at the eastern end of Princes Street. The steps are mastered in a few minutes. The view from up here is enchanting, especially in the early morning hours or during Blue Hour.
The 250-metre-high local mountain, Arthur’s Seat, is located about 1.5 kilometres east of the city centre. It is part of Holyrood Park. It is interesting that the striking hill, which reminded me a bit of Table Mountain in Cape Town, has a volcanic origin. Various walking paths lead along the cliffs over the hill. If you want to enjoy the view from up here, you will have to walk a little longer than to Calton Hill, but you will also be rewarded with a phenomenal view far beyond Edinburgh.
Eaten
Für Schleckmäuler | The Fudge House
Strolling for hours makes you hungry. If you’re on the Royal Mile, you’ll find a sugar bomb refreshment at 197 Canongate. Out of sheer enthusiasm, I chose four fudges, but immediately after the first bite I realized that one would have been enough.
Mittagsstärkung |
On Hanover Street (New Town) there are two great eateries just across the street. For a late brunch or a light midday snack, Urban Angel is recommended. The dishes are not only insanely delicious, but also incredibly healthy – at least the smoothies.
The Dogs (which has been known as “The Perch” since autumn 2018), on the other hand, offers a modern interpretation of home-style Scottish cuisine. Here it can be hearty. For example, we recommend the portion of fish and chips (£6.95) or the beef burger with black pudding (£7.50)
For the big appetite |
I don’t know where the myth comes from that the food in the UK is bad. In any case, we had an excellent meal and, in addition to the restaurants listed here, I had some on the list for which we were simply not hungry. Seasonal cuisine is served at the Field. Since the restaurant has only six tables, reservations should be made here.
If, on the other hand, you are in the mood for a really good piece of meat, you will be happy in the steak. The restaurant is also located just opposite the Playhouse and is therefore suitable for a “pre-theatre dinner” (by the way, I received both tips from @nicolehunziker who travelled to Scotland in early summer 2014). For a quick, cheap dinner, I can also recommend the “Just Burgers and Beer” on the Royal Mile. The burger creations taste good.
Celebrated
Yes, we also celebrated. Three days of New Year’s Eve, or as they say in Scotland: Hogmanay. In addition to the New Year’s spectacle, Edinburgh also attracts visitors with great festivals throughout the rest of the year. An overview can be found here: Edinburgh’s festivals
Well, do you feel a slight tingling sensation now and would like to board the next plane to Scotland?
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