Far away from the hustle and bustle – The Alpina Hotel Tschiertschen

Every year, from the first of December, I regularly check the weather forecast. And – at least in the past three years – it has been a wasted effort. The snow is a long time coming, and a white pre-Christmas season only exists on kitschy Christmas cards and in nostalgic advertising films. But as we all know, hope dies last, and so I used the joker card called “pre-Christmas mountain weekend” again this year. Of course, we had pre-ordered fresh snow in large quantities from Mother Hulda. It was all useless. Like last year, instead of snowshoes, we packed our hiking boots into our suitcases and made our way to Graubünden. Admittedly, the white splendor would only have been an encore. Because – as Werner Walser, the mayor of Tschiertschen, puts it nicely – who needs snow when spring rolls are served? But more on that later.

Hospitality tradition at Schanfigg

Less than thirty minutes away from Chur and yet far away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, the Romantik Hotel The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa welcomes us warmly. Built in 1897, the hotel will celebrate its 120th anniversary next year and looks back on an eventful hotel history. In 2014/2015, the historic hotel building was extensively restored and supplemented with a new building with a spa, conference rooms, wine cellar and lobby area. Tschiertschen and The Alpina still enjoy insider tip status. Ideal for those who are looking for a nice base for a relaxing weekend for two. With a total of 27 rooms and suites and an incredibly charming and witty staff, the Alpina exudes family flair, which we like. Our double room scores with a great view of the striking Weisshorn. The room size is a bit tight and I would have liked 50 cm more maneuvering space between the sink and the bed: if you like it cuddly, you won’t have any problems with it.

A village in a deep slumber

Fortified with fine homemade muesli and Tschiertschen mountain cheese, we are ready for a hike. Tschiertschen is an unbelievably pretty Walser village (and imagine that just for a moment, freshly snowed in – “wow” – right?!) and is located on the Way of St. James Graubünden, which leads from Müstair to Amsteg. The hiking possibilities are diverse. Along the Urdenbach via Urdensee to the Hörnlihütte, over the Urdenfürggli to Parpan or via the Joch to Churwalden. On this autumnal December day, we choose a shorter loop up to the Berghaus Furgglis and then via the hamlet of Clüs back to Tschiertschen. There we walk up to the viewpoint opposite the church and take in the magnificent view of the village and the valley.

Luck is on our side on this day. Because through the narrow alleys between the Walser houses, the sweet smell of mulled wine wafts. Today is the Christmas market in Tschiertschen. The locals gather around the lovingly decorated stalls. I can’t resist the funny displays and test myself through the Christmas cookies. After the march, the energy stores finally need to be filled.

Surprises on the plate

Back at the hotel, my tense muscles are intensively kneaded for 80 minutes. The Shan Spa at The Alpina focuses on medicinal herbs from the mountain world paired with Asian massage techniques. Afterwards, we let ourselves bubble up in the whirlpool with a view of the Weisshornspitze. Finnish sauna, bio sauna, infrared sauna, steam bath and Kneipp pool round off the small but fine offer of the spa area. There are minus points for the relaxation room – it seems barren and cold to me. The loungers outside would be more inviting, but with temperatures just above freezing, that’s not really an option.

From A to Z, on the other hand, the culinary offer is top-notch. Be sure to plan an apéritif in the cozy fireplace bar before dinner. The bar menu includes really cool drinks and the guys behind the bar counter are not at a loss for good tips. In terms of culinary delights, The Alpina is two-fold. Award-winning chef Antonino Messina focuses on regional, seasonal “nose to tail” cuisine and since September 2016 Tony Leung has been complementing the menu selection with Asian dishes. Spring rolls are not to be found on the current menu. But instead, among other things, a fine ramen soup, spicy Asian beef tartare, pork belly “Tung Po Style” and beef Szechuan style.

While we taste our way through the Asian dishes in one evening. The next evening, let’s focus on the local delicacies. The two kinds of Tschiertschen beef and the Alpina burger are really great. Admittedly, my envy is written all over my face when my friend is served the well-presented burger. My pumpkin-orange risotto can’t keep up.

What perfects the dining experience is the incredibly easy-going, humorous nature of the service staff. The Alpina works closely with the hotel management school in Passugg. Not all employees speak perfect German, but that doesn’t matter. They either ask charmingly in English or call someone in for help. Rarely have we felt so comfortable in a restaurant.

The Romantik Hotel The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa offers the perfect starting point for all those who want to spend a cozy mountain weekend in the fresh air and like to be pampered with culinary delights. In addition to countless kilometers of hiking trails, The Alpina offers its guests free e-bikes for excursions in the region and (when the snow finally comes) direct access to the 32 kilometers of slopes in the Tschiertschen ski area. Overnight stay including breakfast and use of the spa is available in winter from 210 CHF for 2 people in a double room. For the current package deals, it’s best to check out the website.

Note: The Alpina Mountain Resort & Spa has invited us for this stay. Thank you very much for this. As always, all impressions are ours.