Maui in 5 days – Hawaii island hopping part 3
“For heaven’s sake, where did we end up here?!” After 14 days on Kauai and the Big Island, the crowds at Maui Kahului Airport provided a brief shocker. Whole clans are scurrying around us, the baggage carousels are hectic and we have to join an unexpectedly long queue for the transfer to the rental car providers. The hustle and bustle vaguely reminds me of the state of affairs in package tourist resorts around the Mediterranean during the high season. Somehow I hadn’t prepared myself for this scenario here in the middle of the Pacific. However, the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago is one of the most popular as an “all-rounder” and so it is actually logical that there is a lot of activity a week before Easter. On Maui, in contrast to Kauai and the Big Island, there are far more resorts and hotel chains that offer classic all-inclusive offers and apartments with direct access to the sea. Especially for Americans with few vacation days, Maui offers the perfect combination of luxurious beach vacation paired with a variety of excursions.
I didn’t like Maui at all in those first minutes at the airport. In the course of our five days on site, our relationship took a turn for the better. After all, after 20 very mixed days, Maui spoiled me with perfect beach weather. Nevertheless; Maui remains my third choice after Kauai and the Big Island. Of course, the detour to Maui is worthwhile with a correspondingly generous time budget. But if I had to limit myself to two islands due to lack of time, it would not be difficult for me to do without Maui.
Heavenly Hana
Maui’s island shape is characterized by two volcanoes. To the west rises the approximately two-million-year-old Puu Kukui, the younger Haleakala forms the east of the island. The two volcanoes are connected by a narrow valley, where Kahului Airport is also located. We’ll tackle one of Maui’s highlights right from the airport. While many Hawaii vacationers drive the “Road to Hana” as part of a day trip, we decided to split up the accommodations and spend the first two nights in Hana. After a good 45 minutes of waiting, we are finally in possession of our rental car, we head straight for the Hana Highway. In the meantime, my stomach growls and the plan is for us to stop for lunch at Mama’s Fish House on the north coast. Obviously, we’re not the only ones with this plan. The parking lot in front of the restaurant is completely overcrowded and there is nothing to do without a reservation (when you later try to organize a reservation online for two days later, it turns out that Mama’s Fish House is apparently extremely popular and you should book a good five days in advance in the high season).
So there is a short stop at the Hookipa Lookout before we tackle the numerous hairpin bends and single-lane bridges. To be honest, I had imagined the Road to Hana to be more spectacular, or at least more promising. The road connects many waterfalls worth seeing and great beach sections, but leads mostly through densely green areas and offers only occasional panoramic views of the north coast. My growling stomach is disappointed a second time. The detour to the Ke’Anae Peninsula is also unsuccessful, as the Aunty Sandy’s Banana Bread Stand has already closed. We find what we are looking for shortly before the beautiful Black Sand Beach at “Hana Farms”. Hana Farms sells numerous products from local farmers right on the roadside and also offers freshly brewed coffee. On this first day, we drive to Hamoa Beach, which we have to ourselves shortly before sunset. Now, finally, I feel the magic of Hana!
Hiking through bamboo forests
Those who stay in Hana like we do enjoy the privilege of visiting the beaches and sights around Hana in the morning and evening hours without the hustle and bustle. For breakfast we head for the Hana Farms again and get coffee and banana bread there. Afterwards we continue along Hana Road to the Kipahulu Visitor Center. Kipahulu is part of Haleakalā National Park. The park entrance fee is $25 per car. The ticket is valid for three days and can therefore also be used on the other side of the national park (Haleakalā Crater). Long before the day-trippers reach the Kipahulu Visitor Center, we lace up our hiking boots and start walking. First we head for the 15-minute circular walk to the Seven Sacred Pools. Unfortunately, swimming is not allowed during our stay due to the amount of water. Afterwards we tackle the Pipiwai Trail. The approximately 1.7-mile-long trail leads through imposing bamboo forests, always slightly uphill, to Waimoku Falls. Definitely a worthwhile hike and for me the highlight around Hana.
The thing about the weather
After two days in Hana, we decided to use Wailuku as our base for the remaining three days. Wailuka is close to the airport and is convenient as a base for exploring both south and west Maui as part of day trips. Next time I would rather look for an apartment in the immediate vicinity of the beach around Wailea or Kaanapali. The infrastructure on the beaches of Maui is poor to non-existent due to the numerous resorts for individual travelers (hardly any showers / stuffy Toi Toi toilets / no changing facilities). This may seem like high-level whining, but Kauai was nothing short of fabulous in that regard.
Even though the weather on Maui was better than on Kauai and the Big Island, it let us down on the crucial morning. Watching the sunrise from the top of Haleakala is one of the highlights of a visit to Maui. Since 1.2.2017 a reservation is required for this. Reservations can be made up to 60 days in advance via the online form. The cost of this is $1.50. If you want to keep several options open, it’s best to reserve several dates at once.
In view of the generally positive weather forecast, we set the alarm clock for 03:30 a.m. on the morning in question and set off in the dark towards the summit. At the entrance to the National Park, a name will be used to check whether a reservation has been made. After that, it’s time to wait – I stay in the car as long as possible, because a biting cold wind is blowing outside. We are located at 3,000 m above sea level and the drop in temperature should not be underestimated. By the way, taking gloves with you is not a bad idea. Unfortunately, our trip is not blessed with success. The cloud layer lasts much longer than the weather forecast predicted. Well, the view into the crater is also worthwhile when the sky is overcast. However, we do not go on a hike, because it is simply too cold and hazy for us.
Dream beach found
The positive thing about getting up early is that there are an incredible number of hours in the day. After a breakfast stop at Grandma’s Coffeehouse, we head south of Maui. In the meantime, the cloud layer has loosened slightly and the further south we go, the more beautiful it gets. The friend chose the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve for snorkeling. On the way there we pass some incredibly great mini bays. White sandy beach, palm trees, turquoise water; perfect! But all bays are already occupied and the parking spaces are over. Getting up early is the solution to this problem – but then the Haleakala is not in it. Fortunately, there are still some free spots at Ahihi Bay and the rocky coast is really a great snorkeling spot.
Shortly after noon we move towards Makena Beach, which meets all the requirements of a dream beach! With luck we will find a parking space and enjoy the beautiful weather for the rest of the day. If there was still a shower and changing room here, there would be nothing to complain about.
More adventurous than the Road to Hana
On the fourth day of our stay on Maui, we take on the western part of the island. On the advice of our bed and breakfast host, we started the circumnavigation clockwise. “The Kahekili Highway has its pitfalls and it’s more pleasant to be on the inside with the car,” he says. We are happy to follow this advice and first pass the capital Lahaina, which was even the capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii in the 18th and 19th centuries. In Kaanapali we make a short stop to walk along the seafront promenade in front of all the resorts to Black Rock Beach. Afterwards we continue towards the North Shore and head for Mokuleia Bay and Honolua Bay. Although the two bays are located right next to each other, they are fundamentally different. Mokuleia Bay impresses with a beautiful sandy beach and great waves – ideal for body surfing. Honolua Bay, on the other hand, is quiet and suitable for snorkeling. We have spotted turtles in various places both from the beach and in the water, always keeping the recommended distances (minimum 10 feet). We never managed to take really good photos like that. In Honolua Bay, the friend was lucky enough to see a turtle appear unexpectedly right in front of him and he managed to take the following picture.
After Honolua Bay, the adventurous part along the north coast begins. At this point, I would casually say “forget the Road to Hana, do the Kahekili Highway!” Here you will find fantastic panoramic views of the wild north coast, imposing “blowholes” and nerve-racking single-lane road sections. From the cliffs we even spotted irrigation channels. We drove the section of the route in the evening (between 16:00 and 17:30) and were lucky that hardly any cars came towards us. In contrast to the Road to Hana, where only the bridges are single-lane, the Kahekili Highway has two or three longer single-lane passages. Depending on oncoming traffic, this requires a corresponding reversing manoeuvre. The Kahekili Highway also passes the Waihe’e Ridge Trail, which would have been one of my favorite hiking routes on Maui along with the Pipiwai Trail. Due to the extremely muddy ground (due to the persistent rainfall) we finally decided not to do this hike.
Places of interest in the centre of the island
With all the attractions along the coast of Maui, the sights in the center of the island are often forgotten. The main attraction here is the Iao Valley State Park with the green “Iao Needle” – one of Maui’s trademarks. Parking costs $5 and the number of parking spaces is limited. However, very few tourists stay here for more than thirty minutes, so with luck you can get a free seat after a short wait.
For architecture fans, I can also recommend a short trip to the King Kamehameha Golf Club. The striking pink Clubhouse was designed by the well-known American architect Frank Lloyd Wright on behalf of Arthur Miller for his wife at the time – none other than Marilyn Monroe.
Not far from the golf club, another culinary highlight awaits us. The Maui Tropical Plantation’s restaurant (The Mill House) serves excellent dishes made with local produce. I recommend reserving the table online in advance.
Mahalo Maui!
I think the remarks make it clear that Maui can hold its own when it comes to sights and great beaches, Kauai and the Big Island. However, when it comes to flair and atmosphere, the other two islands clearly have the edge for me. Maui made us happy with fantastic sunsets. I thought in advance that such atmospheres in Hawaii were part of the fixed daily program. But the days passed, and evening after evening the overcast sky kept the upper hand. Except for the last two evenings, which we both spent at Baby Beach in Lahaina. Therefore: Thank you Maui for these beautiful beach moments!
Practical tips for your trip to Maui
- Maui was the most expensive island in terms of rental car and accommodation expenses compared to Kauai and the Big Island.
- We spent two nights in Hana in a small, recommendable apartment (Heavenly Hana) and paid 278 dollars without breakfast. The 3 nights in a bed and breakfast in Wailuku (Old Wailuku Inn) cost us 670 dollars including breakfast. One thing to complain about Old Wailuku Inn is that they don’t offer luggage storage. In general, it is recommended not to leave any items in the car on Maui, because car break-ins are said to happen more often.
- We rented our car on the Big Island from Budget (vehicle group B) and paid 306 CHF for 5 days including insurance (without roadside assistance). On Maui you don’t need a 4×4 car for any route. Only the Piilani Highway from Kaupo is not completely paved and has potholes.
- For a special sunset dinner, I recommend the Mala Ocean Tavern in Lahaina – here you sit so close to the water that you can feel the spray. Another great restaurant option in Lahaina is Star Noodle.
- In Hana, many shacks and food stalls close in the early evening as soon as the day-trippers make their way back. Among them is the Thai food stand “By Pranee”. It’s worth stopping for lunch here. For dinner, I recommend the “Preserve” at the Travaasa Hotel. Another option is the Hana Ranch (also part of the Travaasa). However, we didn’t like it very much there.
- An alternative to Mama’s Fish House is Nuka Restaurant in Haiku
- If you want to enjoy the sunrise from Haleakalā, remember to register online for a fee of $1.50.
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