Monte Tamaro – Monte Lema: high-altitude hike in Ticino

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A magnificent mountain panorama, a varied hiking trail and various places to stop for refreshments; the hike from Monte Tamaro to Monte Lema has all the ingredients needed for a magnificent mountain hike. Ever since my parents told me eloquently and enthusiastically about their experiences on this tour, it has been on my bucket list. This summer, the opportunity finally arose to tackle this classic among Swiss high-altitude hikes yourself. Strangely enough, it is widely accepted that this hike cannot be undertaken as a day trip from German-speaking Switzerland. But if my parents, starting in Bern (and before the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel), can do it, then it should be child’s play from Zurich.

In cooperation with SBB RailAway, we are allowed to do what we enjoy in August – visit four fantastic Swiss mountain peaks and report on them. After visiting Mount Pilatus near Lucerne, the Männlichen in the Bernese Oberland and the highest panoramic mountain in Central Switzerland – the Titlis – we travelled to Ticino as the end of this series and undertook one of the most beautiful high-altitude hikes in Switzerland.

Obligatory stopover: Alpe Foppa

But when I consult the SBB app for suitable connections, I am confused at first. “From Zurich to Monte Tamaro,” I type my starting point and destination into the app. However, the destination “Monte Tamaro” is unknown to the app as the mountain station of an aerial cableway. Irritated, I take a look at the map and realize that there is no cable car to the summit of Monte Tamaro. The mountain station of the Monte Tamaro cable car is located on Alpe Foppa – about 500 metres below the actual summit. Well, then we have to work out the fabulous panoramic view for which the summit of Monte Tamaros is famous.

If you get up early, you can reach the valley station of the Monte Tamaro cable car in Rivera, not far from Bellinzona, before the start of operation. Shortly after 8:15 a.m. we join the queue that has already formed in front of the entrance to the cable car station. It’s no wonder that on such a magnificent weekend day, it’s not just us who are drawn to the mountains. At 8:30 a.m. sharp, the ticket counters open and a few minutes later we are sitting in one of the colorful gondolas. We look back towards the valley station, next to which is the Splash & Spa Tamaro adventure pool – a leisure alternative for less sunny days. After a good 15 minutes of driving, we reach Alpe Foppa at 1,500 metres above sea level. Alpe Foppa is not only the starting point for great high-altitude hikes and mountain bike tours, but also impresses with its phenomenal views.

Art on the mountain

Another highlight on Alpe Foppa is the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, designed by Mario Botta. The shape of the church building resembles a bulwark and is a magnet for visitors. No one who visits Alpe Foppa for the first time misses the panoramic view from the church roof. In addition to the church, there are other exciting installations to visit on Alpe Foppa for those interested in architecture and art: the “Suspended Cube” by the sculptor Jaya Schürch, the “The Temple Guardian” by Luca Marcionelli and the “Madonna del Tamaro” by Antonio Danzi.

Art also accompanies us on the first section of the path towards the summit of Monte Tamaro. Next to the wide gravel path are monumental sculptures by Ivo Soldini. As part of the exhibition “Una Montagna d’Arte” 2018/2019, the artist presents a total of 19 figures in an inclined position. An exciting open-air exhibition that makes it easier to get started on the tough ascent to the summit.

Ascent to Monte Tamaro

For the first 2.5 kilometres, the trail follows a relatively wide gravel path, which is also used by mountain bikes and, with the exception of the view, is not particularly attractive. We are on our way quickly and reach the Capanna Tamaro faster than signposted. It is still early and the Tamaro summit is within reach and so we march on without a break.

Directly behind the hut, the previously wide gravel path turns into a narrow, exciting mountain path. We follow the edge of the slope and after a good twenty minutes tackle the remaining 100 meters of altitude to the summit. The great thing about the high-altitude hike from Monte Tamaro to Monte Lema is that there is the possibility to bypass it at each summit and thus save a few meters of altitude. But we are not deterred by the steep ascent and less than 15 minutes later we stand at 1,962 meters above sea level and marvel at the panorama that stretches from the Gotthard massif over the Leventina and Lake Maggiore to Lake Lugano. A splendor!

Panoramic high-altitude hike from Monte Tamaro to Monte Lema

From here, the Alta Via mostly follows the ridge that stretches from Monte Tamaro to Monte Lema. But if you think that all the altitude meters have been mastered at this point, you will be disappointed. A short, jagged descent is followed by another sweaty ascent up to Monte Gradiccioli. This, too, can be avoided with a “shortcut”, but we don’t want to miss any summit today. From Monte Gradiccioli, the trail leads high above the densely wooded Malcantone towards Monte Lema. We are located very close to the Italian border. The small picturesque mountain villages that we discover on the right side of the valley are all already part of Italy. If, like us, you continue hiking at the Capanna Tamaro without resting, you will have the next opportunity for a stopover at the old customs house at Passo d’Agario. Inside it has a fridge with drinks (self-service). After that, it’s not far to Monte Lema – although on the very last section there is a nasty climb. So don’t get too excited when you discover the mountain station of Monte Lemas at the same height in front of you – you still have to cross a ravine.

Once this last obstacle has been overcome, nothing stands in the way of a well-deserved break on the sun terrace of the Ostello Vetta restaurant, right next to the mountain station of the Monte Lema cable car. Order a refreshing drink and enjoy the magnificent view of Lake Lugano. And I now know that my parents were not exaggerating with their ravings – the high-altitude hike from Monte Tamaro to Monte Lema is deservedly one of the most beautiful panoramic hikes in Switzerland. In addition, we have proven that the tour can easily be done as a day trip from Zurich (or Lucerne); at 6:30 p.m. we are back at Zurich train station. My tip: keep this hike in mind as an excursion destination for gloomy autumn days on the northern side of the Alps.

Practical information about the high-altitude hike Monte Tamaro – Monte Lema

The route of the high-altitude hike from Monte Tamaro to Monte Lema can be found on the map below. The distance from Alpe Foppa to Monte Lema is 13 kilometres. From Alpe Foppa to the summit of Monte Tamaro, 500 meters of altitude have to be overcome. If you consistently follow the ridge and take Monte Gradiccioli with you, you will have to overcome a total of almost 1,000 meters in altitude. Alternatively, in some places it is possible to switch to a hiking route that follows the edge of the slope and thus save a few meters of altitude. I recommend planning a good 4.5 hours for the pure running time (signposted are 5 hours, which is rather generous). From Monte Lema there is an hourly connection back to Zurich, with one exception around lunchtime. As long as you don’t start too late in the morning, the hike is easily feasible as a day trip from Zurich.