Our first multi-day bike tour: around Lake Lucerne in 4 days

A bike, two waterproof saddlebags and four magnificent spring days awaited me at Lake Lucerne at the end of March. After I preferred hiking to cycling in recent years, this year I want to use the bike more again. By bike, you can explore a region at a brisk pace or “leisure” by bike – the advantage over hiking: you are much faster on the road with the same flexibility. The bike tour premiere takes us to Central Switzerland. The goal of the trip: to circumnavigate Lake Lucerne in four days.

First of all: Before the trip, I thought that I knew Central Switzerland and its “highlights”. Here on the blog I have already presented one or the other Central Swiss excursion destination. On this bike tour, however, I experienced the region from a different perspective and discovered corners that were unknown to me until then.

Day 1: Vitznau – Amsteg – Vitznau

Last year, the Hotel Terrasse am See, together with three other Swiss Historic Hotels in Central Switzerland, put together a cycling package consisting of a multi-day tour with overnight stays. The bike tour leads in four daily stages from Vitznau via Amsteg to Flüeli-Ranft and from there via Lucerne back to Vitznau. The Hotel Terrasse am See provides the e-bikes (two flyers of the Rent a Bike fleet) with helmet and saddlebags for this purpose.

Actually, the first stage of the bike tour leads from Vitznau along SwitzerlandMobility Route 38 (Lucerne hinterland – Rigi) and 3 (north-south route) to the Hotel Stern & Post in Amsteg. However, since the Hotel Stern und Post does not start the season until Easter, we adapt our route so that we cycle from Vitznau to Amsteg, take a lunch break there and then pedal the first part of the second stage to Bauen. A good 65 kilometers have to be mastered for us on this first day. It’s quite a bit – but thanks to the e-bike, we’re on the road. We leave Vitznau behind us and follow the little-used connecting road to Brunnen. With views of Lake Lucerne, this section is not stingy and in Gersau a short stop at the beautifully designed lakeside promenade is worthwhile. If you are a cyclist brave the car traffic, you can continue to follow Route 3 in Brunnen, which now runs parallel to the busy Axenstrasse. The first rather uncomfortable section can be bridged with a short train ride from Brunnen to Sisikon. With the GA travelcard, the bike ticket for this route costs 2.20 CHF.

You should definitely get off the train in Sisikon. If you don’t, you’ll miss out on what is probably the most spectacular section of the Vitznau – Amsteg cycle route. The cycle path is routed away from through traffic on the old Axenstrasse, which promises impressive views and views. Fantastic! Equally entertaining is the subsequent journey through the Reuss plain to Amsteg. Although the landscape here is intersected by numerous massive infrastructure buildings, the cycle path gallantly leads past it. To my astonishment, we are accompanied by the sound of the Reuss and not by the monotonous hum of the motorway.

If you are staying at the Hotel Stern und Post, I recommend using the remaining time until dinner for a detour to the Arnisee or Golzernsee. Unfortunately, we don’t have enough time on this day, because we were supposed to catch the last ship from Bauen back to Vitznau. But we are well on time and treat ourselves to a break on the way back at the idyllic Reuss delta between Flüelen and Seedorf.

The last kilometers of the day we follow the bike route 403 to Isleten. The remaining section to Bauen is no longer signposted as a cycle path, but the road is so little used that the route can be mastered very well.

Just in time with the magnificent evening atmosphere, we are back at the Hotel Terrasse am See and let ourselves be pampered by the hosts. If there are still several free rooms available at the Hotel Terrasse am See, hostess Pia Nussbaumer leaves the key basket to her guests. You can take a look at each of the differently designed rooms and choose your “favourite room”. Not an easy task, because every room is a little gem.

Day 2: Vitznau – Flüeli-Ranft

Freshly strengthened, we start the second day of the bike tour with a boat trip. After a short crossing from Vitznau to Beckenried, we have to pedal ourselves again. The second stage takes us from Beckenried via Stans to the Hotel Paxmontana in Flüeli-Ranft. Between Beckenried and Buochs we cycle directly along the lake and admire the first blossoming cherry trees. On hot summer days you will also find one or two beautiful bathing spots here. In Stans we make a stop at the village square. The most famous photo motifs here are probably the Winkelried fountain and the Winkelried monument on the edge of the village square. When the summer weather is nice, it’s worth taking a detour to the Stanserhorn. During our visit, however, it is still in winter garb at the top and so we cycle on towards Kerns.

While we have always been on paved main or side roads so far, the first section with natural surface follows shortly before Kerns. Here, the cycle path leads on idyllic gravel paths through the core forest. A great section that is also suitable for a longer lunch break. Since we have already completed half of this day’s stage the day before, we spontaneously extend our route by 18 kilometers with the Lake Sarnen tour (Route 702). Instead of cycling directly up to Flüeli-Ranft (one of the sections of the route for which I am grateful for the electronic support of my bike), we descend to Sachseln and follow the signposted Sarnersee tour around the lake to Sarnen.

Afterwards we have earned the “Sünnelä” on the sun terrace of the Hotel Paxmontana. I have already reported here on the blog about the unique Art Nouveau hotel in an enviable location high above Lake Sarnen and can only repeat myself at this point: a great place to come down, eat fine food and enjoy the phenomenal view.

Day 3: Flüeli-Ranft – Lucerne

On the third day, the calves and buttocks (despite commendably comfortable Flyer saddles) make themselves felt. But don’t complain – let’s move on! And on the third day in a row with bright sunshine, we cycle elatedly towards Lucerne despite pinching muscles. We first follow route 703 (Wichelsee round trip), which leads us on an exciting route between nature reserve and military airfield to Alpnachstad. Various water birds can be observed at the idyllically situated Wichelsee and aviation enthusiasts will get their money’s worth when crossing the airfield (which is secured by barriers when an aircraft is on the runway).

In Alpnachstad, as in Stans, there is the possibility to combine the bike tour with a detour to one of the most famous peaks around Lake Lucerne. In addition to the great view, there is also a lot else to experience on Mount Pilatus. We only make a short stop at the waterfront in Alpnachstad, admire the panorama and then continue to Hergiswil. Right next to Glasi is the lakeside restaurant Belvédère, where Fabian Inderbitzin cooks at star level (awarded with 17 Gault Millau points and 1 Michelin star). A worthwhile lunch stop for all those who want to treat themselves to a gourmet lunch at a fair price (2 courses 44 CHF / 3 courses 58 CHF). Fabien Inderbitzin serves simpler cuisine in the Seebistro right next door (same entrance).

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It is not far from Hergiswil to the city centre of Lucerne. Nevertheless, it is worth allowing enough time for this section. You can expect some beautiful bathing spots along the way. At the end of March, it is still a bit too fresh for us to swim in Lake Lucerne, but between Winkel and Tribsche on this beautiful Saturday afternoon, some sun-seekers have already installed themselves on the sunbathing lawns.

The cycle path zigzags past the train station into the old town of Lucerne. Here in a prime location is the historic Hotel Wilden Mann. The hotel corridors are winding, the stairs creak and each room tells its own story. Definitely a house with character in the middle of Lucerne – and it’s also home to the best Lucerne Chügelipastete far and wide.

Shortly before sunset, we hop on our bikes again and ride to Meggenhorn Castle on the outskirts of Lucerne. Here you will find one of the most beautiful places in the region to enjoy the sunset. That’s what Pia Nussbaumer gave us two days earlier as a tip. And she’s so right! If you follow the hiking trail sign towards the statue of Christ, you will find a bench right at the foot of the statue, which guarantees a box seat for the sunset!

Day 4: Lucerne – Vitznau

While we arrived in Lucerne the day before in the middle of the Saturday afternoon hustle and bustle, we enjoy a free ride in the old town on Sunday morning. Today we follow Route 38 through the Lucerne hinterland via Küssnacht and Weggis back to Vitznau. This corner is new territory for me. The cycle path leads from Lucerne towards the Museum of Transport and then winds its way through Oberseeburg up the hill range into the Meggerwald. It pays to start early. The atmosphere in the forest in the morning is simply magical. The birds are chirping and the sun’s rays make the forest floor glow golden. As soon as the Meggerwald is crossed, there is a great panoramic view from the hill over lush green pastures towards Bürgenstock and Rigi.

After two short drinking breaks in Küssnacht and Weggis, we can already see the town sign of Vitznau in front of us. As fast as we were on the road, the four days passed. Not only did we really enjoy the bike tour from A to Z, but we also found that there is an incredible amount to experience and see along the way. From the Rigi to the Stanserhorn to the Pilatus, from the Glasi Hergiswil to the Lucerne Museum of Art to the Museum of Transport and then there are the numerous beautiful bathing spots and delicious places to stop for refreshments. There is definitely no shortage of worthwhile stops.

Cycling around Lake Lucerne – Practical tips for your bike tour

• The “E-Bike Tour to the Swiss Historic Hotels in Central Switzerland” offer costs CHF 653 per person in a double room. If you bring your own bike, helmet and saddlebags, you pay 189 CHF less. You can find more information about the offer here: E-Bike-Tour Hotel Terrasse am See
• The bike tour around Lake Lucerne follows mostly signposted SwitzerlandMobility cycle routes and is well signposted. Only when driving from Amsteg in the direction of Bauen you have to pay attention to the right turn-off to the bike route 403 (Isenthal Bike) before the Reuss delta.
• The two e-bikes from the Hotel Terrasse am See are flyers of the latest generation and have a battery range of approx. 120 kilometres. The battery was enough for us on every route without any problems.
• I recommend dividing the route Amsteg – Bauen – Beckenried – Flüeli-Ranft in such a way that you take your lunch break in Bauen. There are two great places to stop for refreshments, the Zwyssighaus and Fischli am See (reservation recommended).
• The two saddlebags from Ortlieb hold everything you need for the four-day bike tour. It’s best to pack in such a way that you don’t need an additional backpack and your back remains unloaded.

The following map shows the standard route of the bike tour around Lake Lucerne. For the Bauen-Beckenried section, take the scheduled boat – there is no cycle path on this section (cost for the bike: 8 CHF – the SBB cycle day ticket is not valid on Lake Lucerne). You can read the detailed route descriptions of the individual route sections at SwitzerlandMobility – Cycling in Switzerland.

Note: this trip was supported by the Swiss Historic Hotels in Central Switzerland – as always, all impressions and opinions are those of our customers.