With ups and downs – Madeira’s wild north

A road trip along Madeira’s old coastal road is like driving through a postcard. The serpentines wind through the green hills and every few hundred meters a road sign points us to a Miradouro. The viewpoints are so numerous that at some point we dare to skip one or the other. Otherwise we would probably still be stuck somewhere between Seixal and Ribeira de Janela. We explored the north coast in two stages. The first day we started at the eastern tip of the island and then drove with a detour via Porto da Cruz, Santana and Ponta Delgada to Pico Ruivo. The second stage took us to Porto Moniz at sunrise. From there we explored the area around São Vicente and then drove on to the westernmost point of the island Ponta do Pargo.

A road trip through Madeira’s wild north can easily be done as a day trip. So that you don’t lose track of all the breakneck curves and miradouros, I’ve put together my favorite places on the north coast for you below. One thing seems clear, the north of the flower island is blessed with an impressive cliff landscape.

Porto da Cruz – black beach

Porto da Cruz is one of the oldest villages on the island. The main attraction of many organized bus tours is the historic sugar cane factory Companhia dos Engenhos do Norte near the beach. We also took a quick look inside, but then walked on to the black lava beach, which lies in front of an impressive cliff panorama.

Faial – green hinterland

The drive from Porto da Cruz towards Santana leads through idyllic hinterland. Vineyard terraces, orchards, small settlements with pretty white houses and wild fields merge smoothly into each other. The most beautiful view over Faial, which lies at the foot of the mighty Eagle Rock, is from the Forte do Faial. The way there is signposted on the old coastal road.

Santana – Madeira auf Eis

Santana is known for its «Casas de Colmo», thatched, colourfully painted houses. But we didn’t do that. The whole thing was too touristy for us. The complex can be compared to an open-air museum. Don’t miss the restaurant Quinta do Furão (Achada do Gramacho). This is where the now legendary drink “Madeira com Gelo” was invented. A semi-dry Madeira wine, some ice, a slice of lemon, a slice of orange and a leaf of mint – et voilà, cheers! The whole thing comes with a fantastic view. For the small appetite I can recommend the typical Madeira tomato soup. The fresh mussels are also delicious. A wonderful place to take a break.

St. George’s Arch – knapp bemessene Küstenstrasse

Between São Jorge and Ponta Delgada, the road becomes so narrow in places that crossing becomes millimetre work. Fortunately, traffic is limited in this section.

Ponta Delgada – Church on the Abyss

The white church of Ponta Delgada stands directly on the cliff and is full of wind and weather.

São Vicente – baroque frescoes

São Vicente is only a few meters from the sea, but the protective rocky outcrop gives us the impression that we are already in the high mountains. The village has a nicely renovated core. The baroque parish church of Igreja de São Vicente is worth seeing. A sign indicates that one euro must be donated to photograph the interior of the church – all bus tourists taking compact cameras have skilfully ignored this hint. Directly opposite the church is a small café where the beefsteak is served as a sandwich, which is typical for Madeira. Also worth a stop are the Grutas e Centro de Vulcanismo. A cave leads to the geological origins of the volcanic island.

Seixal – Küstenblick

As mentioned at the beginning, Miradouros are available in Madeira by the meter and we couldn’t resist the stop here either.

Ribeira de Janela – schroffe Schönheit

The rugged rock formation “Ilheus de Ribeira Janela” is located directly off the coast of Ribeira Janela and is definitely one of the most beautiful photo spots on the island.

Porto Moniz – Swimming in the lava pool

And from Ribeira Janela it is only a stone’s throw to Porto Moniz. The climate here is harsh. The wind pulls around our ears in the early morning and the waves whip meters high against the bizarre lava rocks, which have formed a natural pool in the sea over time. It was too cold for us to swim, but even without stretching our feet into the sea, the “Piscinas Naturrais” are a fascinating place. For breakfast we went to a small bar in the village center. Two sweet pieces, an espresso and a café are available for just under 3.50 euros.

Achadas da Cruz- 450 m in depth

In Achadas da Cruz, the signpost “Teleférico” caught our attention. Without knowing what was waiting for us, we followed the winding road down to the coast. After about 15 minutes, a cable car station appeared in front of us. The cable car itself was out of service, but our curiosity was rewarded with an impressive view into the depths. This cliff is not quite high like Cabo Girão on the south coast, but the panorama with the cultivated fields on the coastal strip is all the more beautiful.

Ponta do Pargo – Blossom magic at the westernmost point of the island

A stop at the lighthouse in Ponta do Pargo is a must when circumnavigating the west of the island. In my opinion, it could also be omitted. The lighthouse itself is sandwiched between a steeply sloping road and a cliff. If so, follow the sign “Casa do Cha” to the west of the lighthouse. At the end of the street, we are greeted by a pretty, flower-covered cottage (a café during the high season) with a nostalgic viewing platform. If you lean far out, you can also see the top of the lighthouse from here.

You can find more tips about Madeira here: Hiking in Madeira Travel Tips

Note: We have travelled to Madeira in cooperation with Kuoni. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.