Snowshoe tip Aletschwald – quiet happiness found

A critical look at my footwear and the snowshoes and poles are pressed into my hands. Of course, I dutifully laced up my hiking boots. We made an appointment with mountain guide Martin Nellen at the Riederalp snow sports school. Today he wants to take us off the beaten track and snowshoe trails into the depths of the Aletsch Forest. If only it weren’t for the thick fog that has persisted since the early morning up to the highest altitudes of the Aletsch Arena. “Do we still want to go to the Moosfluh?” asks Martin. Although, according to the webcam, the thick clouds of fog have everything firmly under control up on the Moosfluh, we still decide to take stock on site and march towards the Mossfluh gondola.

Shortly before the mountain station, a murmur goes through the cabin. The fog dissipates to the lower altitudes and reveals the panoramic view just in time for our appearance. Once again, we are the luckiest of all.

After we have taken pictures of the 360° panoramic view of over 100 peaks and the unique view of the Aletsch Glacier from every angle and marveled at it, we set off on our snowshoe tour. As magnificently snow-covered as the glacier is these days, it is just as fragile as an ecosystem. Every year he retreats a little further and changes the landscape and its history permanently. As a local, Martin has a lot to tell along the way. To the Aletsch Glacier, to the flora and fauna but also to old legends and myths. Our route quickly branches off from the marked winter hiking trail and heads down the valley towards the Aletsch Glacier. Step by step, we make a virgin track in the feather-light fresh snow.

Since 1933, the larch pine forest on the edge of the Aletsch Glacier has been protected. The 410-hectare protected area was initiated by Pro Natura. At the end of the last ice age, more than 10,000 years ago, the edge of the glacier reached almost to today’s Riederfurka and left behind a huge lateral moraine after its retreat. And it is precisely on this lateral moraine that we trudge through the snow and admire the stone pines covered with snow crystals to the left and right. Which paths may be used in winter has been agreed with Pro Natura. That’s why it’s not recommended to happily trudge through somewhere without a guide. In a protected area, you should be considerate and well considered.

The Aletsch Forest is in hibernation. During the barren winter days, there are not many animals to be found here. Nevertheless, if you explore the area with an expert guide, you will track down some exciting tracks. “A fox and a hare crossed over here,” Martin said. Aha, so this is the place where fox and hare say good night to each other. Luck is on our side this afternoon. In addition to the many criss-crossing tracks, we also spot some black grouse, which seem to have scattered in flocks along the snowshoe path. He sees one or two black grouse on almost every tour, but as many as today are extremely rare, says Martin.

The closer we get to the Riederfurka, the more mystical the atmosphere around us becomes. Here in the valley basin the fog has not cleared. The viscous wafts of fog swallow all sounds. Apart from the crunch of the frozen layer of snow, no sound can be heard. Here in the Aletsch Forest, civilization seems miles away. A wonderful nature experience.

But I suddenly realize that we were actually in the immediate vicinity of a winter sports area when we emerge from the forest at the Riederfurka after about three hours. This is where the paths of winter sports enthusiasts and snowshoe hikers cross. As a reward, there is a warming punch in the mountain restaurant.

Last but not least, Martin gives us two film tips; Winna – the path of souls, a film about the legends of the Upper Valais and Steps, a film about the ecological footprint of ski tourism. In both, he plays as the protagonist and says with a twinkle in his eye that his path leads him from the Upper Valais directly to Hollywood. Who knows. Until then, he will continue to work as a mountain guide to bring guests closer to the wondrous world of the Aletsch Glacier in summer and winter. Because one thing is indisputable: on a snowshoe tour along the gnarled Swiss stone pines and the impressive geological remnants of the last ice age, you will find a piece of happiness step by step.

Info and tips:

• Every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, snowshoe tours are offered by the Riederalp snow sports school. Costs incl. snowshoes and train ride 45 CHF. More information here: Snow Sports School Riederalp
• In winter and summer, the Riederalp Mountaineering School offers an interesting programme. Particularly exciting is the UNESCO Glacier Tour, which takes place on Tuesdays

Note: This trip was supported by the Aletsch Arena – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.