Is a hike into Val Roseg worth it?
The Val Roseg near Pontresina is considered one of the most beautiful high valleys in the Engadin. And the best part: it can be explored in a variety of ways. Whether on foot during a relaxing walk or on the way to a higher hiking destination, by bike, or by horse-drawn carriage. But is a detour to Val Roseg really worth it? We investigated this question last weekend and took a closer look at the hiking trail into the already slightly autumn-tinted Val Roseg.
The Val Roseg near Pontresina
The approximately 12-kilometer-long Val Roseg stretches from Pontresina station to the northern slope of the Bernina group. There, you’ll find the Roseg Glacier, which, along with the Tschierva Glacier, extended almost to the present-day Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher during the Little Ice Age. Since then, the ice mass has retreated significantly, leaving behind a lake. The Lej da Vadret is located at an altitude of 2,160 m a.s.l. and can be reached from the Hotel Restaurant Val Roseg in about an hour’s walk.
Val Roseg is mostly car-free and is crisscrossed by two paths: a narrow natural trail reserved for pedestrians and a paved path used by horse-drawn carriages and cyclists.
Hiking through Larch and Stone Pine Forests into Val Roseg
We start our hike into Val Roseg directly at Pontresina station. From there, we follow the signposts over the Ova da Roseg and turn onto the forest path at the parking lot after the bridge. After just a few minutes, we are surrounded by tall pines, larches, and stone pines, breathing in the fragrant forest air. Unfortunately, we cannot complete the entire route on this idyllic forest path. Shortly before the first bridge, a path closure directs us to the paved path on the other side of the valley. Initially, we are a bit disheartened and wonder if this hike was the right decision after all?
The low point in mood is quickly overcome. Parallel to the wide gravel path, a narrow trail running alongside the river revives the natural feeling once again. Additionally, there are still few people here, and after the first horse-drawn carriages pass us, tranquility returns.
The hike is not particularly challenging in terms of endurance, thanks to the gently ascending path. However, we are keeping a fairly brisk pace, so we do start to break a sweat as we go. After just under 1.5 hours, we have traversed the wooded section of Val Roseg and gaze over the impressive high plateau towards the glacier-covered end of the valley.
Stopover at the Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher
Here, you could either delve further into the fascinating mountain world or enjoy a well-deserved break on the sun terrace of the Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher. And that’s exactly what we do. If you arrive here before the general lunchtime rush, you’ll easily find a spot, even on well-attended weekends.
The menu features seasonal game dishes (unfortunately, without specifying the source of the meat, and the answer to my inquiry was also unsatisfactory: “from New Zealand or from here – depending”), as well as Grisons specialties. I opt for a chestnut soup (very tasty!), and my companion orders the hunter’s platter (nicely presented and also good). A true highlight is the extensive cake buffet. However, I unwittingly hit a “sore spot” here as well. The Black Forest cake listed on the menu was unfortunately not among the over twenty cakes and tortes available on the day of our visit. So instead, we share a piece of Sachertorte for dessert. Overall, though, an absolutely delightful stopover that perfectly rounds off the leisurely hiking excursion.
Return Along the Ova da Roseg to Pontresina
We then head back downhill to Pontresina along the same path. Although there is slightly more traffic along the way, the number of people remains manageable. I am also very impressed with the forest paths – they are wonderfully grounding (and pleasantly shaded on warm days!).
So, after our detour, I can confidently confirm: Yes, a hike into Val Roseg is worth it! Whether you just want to spend a few active hours in nature without any specific athletic ambitions, or especially in October – when the larches are dressed in their golden autumn colors. We were just a tad early for that – but it’s only a matter of time.
Key Facts About the Pontresina – Val Roseg – Surovas Hike
The following hiking map shows the route of our hike from Pontresina station to Val Roseg and back. Generally, a predominantly white-red-white marked mountain trail (T2) runs along the orographic right side of the Ova da Roseg from Pontresina to the Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher. It is a well-maintained forest path that runs from Pontresina to the Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher without major unevenness or inclines through the forest. This path also includes the Erlebnisweg Val Roseg, which offers children educational entertainment with 10 stamp stations.
Unfortunately, parts of this actual hiking trail are closed until further notice due to a rockfall. The hiking trail is therefore rerouted in sections to the wide gravel path on the left side of the river. This path is shared with horse-drawn carriages and cyclists. By the way, you can also navigate this path easily with a stroller.
The current trail closures are visible on the following SchweizMobil map, although according to our on-site research, they do not fully match the signage on site, and the path marked in black is outside the closed areas.
Starting Point | Pontresina, Station (1,774 m a.s.l.) |
Accessibility | Accessible by public transport |
Distance | 15.2 kilometers |
Elevation | ↗ 316 m ↘ 267 m |
Duration | 3:45 h |
Destination | Pontresina, Surovas Station (1,819 m a.s.l.) |
Refreshments | Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher (June 10, 2023 to October 22, 2023) |
Practical Tips for Your Excursion to Val Roseg
- Val Roseg is a popular excursion and hiking destination on nice days. If you want to enjoy the magic of the valley to yourself, it’s best to start the hike early or take the tour on a weekday during the off-season.
- The Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher is open in summer from mid-June until the second half of October. In winter, the season starts around December 10 and lasts until early April. A highlight is the cake buffet there. You can choose from about twenty different cakes, fruit tarts, tortes, and seasonal dessert specialties.
- During the summer season, Val Roseg is also accessible via the “horse omnibus.” Between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm, an hourly, public carriage ride is offered from Pontresina station to the Hotel Roseg. A one-way trip costs 25 CHF for adults (round trip 36 CHF). A prior reservation is recommended – but in the off-season, you can usually find a seat even without a reservation. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket booth at the entrance to Val Roseg (cash only!) and at the Hotel Roseg. More information and timetables for the summer and winter operations can be found on the website of Wohlis Kutschbetrieb, which operates the “horse omnibus.”
- You can also book private carriage rides with various operators. Prices start at around 140 CHF (one way) or 250 CHF (round trip).
- In winter, a marked winter hiking trail leads from Pontresina to the Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher.
Other Recommended Hikes in the Region
Below are some alternative hiking tips in the region:
- If the simple valley hike through Val Roseg seems too easy, you can follow the marked Route No. 53 (Bernina Tour) uphill to the “Murtèl” middle station of the Corvatsch cable cars, gaining 1,100 meters of elevation.
- Further back in Val Roseg, there are two SAC huts to discover: the Tschierva Hut and the Chamanna Coaz. The Chamanna Coaz is currently under renovation and will reopen for hikers in the summer season of 2024. The Tschierva Hut season lasted until October 1.
- Not far from Val Roseg, you can undertake an equally rewarding autumn hike in the Val Trupchun, located in the National Park.
- More physically demanding are the mountain hikes described in this post from Muottas Muragl to La Punt and along the Via Albula from Bever to Preda.
- And if the sun doesn’t shine in the Engadin, I’ve put together some great tips for bad weather in this post.
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