Holidays in Piedmont: Indulgence and Relaxation at Giarvino in the Monferrato

Sponsored post: in collaboration with the Giarvino Boutique Guest House

When planning a trip to Piedmont, you quickly end up at the well-known classics. We, too, have already explored the region on several trips, from the picturesque Lago d’Orta to the elegant capital Turin.

For an extended weekend over Easter, we deliberately wanted to discover a less well-known corner. Our choice fell on the Monferrato in the southeastern province of Alessandria. The hill country, shaped by viticulture, is unjustly in the shadow of the internationally better-known wine regions Langhe and Roero around the towns of Alba and Asti. Yet the Monferrato, located south of them, offers exactly what we love about Italy: charming small towns, authentic villages, excellent regional cuisine, and plenty of relaxed dolce vita.

It was exactly this mix that also captivated Romy and Fredy Wiederkehr. The Swiss couple created, on a ridge about 200 meters above the small town of Acqui Terme, in the middle of the beautiful cultural landscape, with the Giarvino Boutique Guest House a stylish retreat for relaxed vacation days in Piedmont.

A slower-paced stay in a lesser-known corner of Piedmont

But before we go into detail about the Giarvino Boutique Guest House, a brief look at the region is worthwhile. Piedmont is, after Sicily the second-largest of the total 20 Italian regions and stretches from the Swiss border at Domodossola to just short of the Mediterranean coast. The region doesn’t have direct access to the sea, but from Acqui Terme the beautiful beaches of the Ligurian coast can be reached in about an hour and a half.

The Monferrato wine region in the province of Alessandria has been, since 2014, part of the UNESCO World Heritage alongside the Langhe and the Roero. The famous white truffles also have their home here. Compared to the better-known places around Alba and Asti, the southeastern part of Piedmont is noticeably quieter, which is reflected in more moderate prices. What we particularly liked was the authentic atmosphere. In restaurants, almost exclusively Italian is spoken; English is not always a given. That’s precisely what gives this area its special appeal for us.

The Giarvino Boutique Guest House: a stylish place to stay in the Monferrato

Nestled in the hilly landscape of the Monferrato, the Giarvino Boutique Guest House lies a little off the main traffic routes, about five kilometers from Acqui Terme, right in the prestigious Nizza Monferrato wine-growing area, which is part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The last kilometers lead over narrow paved lanes that wind through the vineyards. It’s no surprise, then, that the Giarvino is also surrounded by grapevines. When naming the guest house, this aspect played an important role, as host Romy Wiederkehr later told us. The combination of “giardino” for garden and “vino” for wine aptly describes the essence of the house.

The Swiss soprano and her husband Fredy Wiederkehr, founder of Foxtrail, bought the historic estate in autumn 2019 and transformed it with great passion into a small refuge for food lovers, those seeking peace, and anyone who wants to discover a still little-known corner of Italy. The old structures were preserved where possible and skillfully combined with new elements. Each of the ten rooms and suites is named after a grape variety and individually furnished.

My favorite is the Tramonto Panoramic Suite with a magnificent view of the surrounding hill ranges. But from the junior suites in the cleverly converted attic you also enjoy a wide view that on clear days reaches as far as the Apennines.

Moments of enjoyment at Giarvino

Hardly had we arrived when we found ourselves on the terrace with a glass of the house Sauvignon Blanc and homemade grissini, quietly enjoying the last warm rays of the spring sun. This is exactly how I imagine a relaxing getaway with plenty of dolce far niente.

Later we take a seat in the on-site restaurant and let ourselves be treated to culinary delights. The menu is deliberately kept concise, just the way we like it. There are four Antipasti, Primi and Secondi to choose from, as well as two tasting menus. For guests who stay longer, the menu is supplemented with seasonal daily recommendations.

For Romy and Fredy it is important that the restaurant not only caters to hotel guests but also to the local population. Accordingly, the prices are on the level of restaurants in Acqui Terme. In addition to Piedmontese classics, the menu also features creative, slightly more unusual dishes. A successful mix, in our opinion. Those looking for the right wine are competently advised by sommelier Danilo.

And that is just one of many moments of enjoyment we were able to experience during our stay. Also particularly memorable is the lovingly prepared breakfast buffet in the vaulted cellar. The sweet delicacies are baked personally by longtime employee Ornella. There are also fresh fruits as well as regional cheese and meat specialties.

Around the guesthouse there are also numerous cozy corners that invite you to consciously pause and enjoy. For example, you can retreat to a treehouse and observe nature from there. With a bit of luck you can even spot deer. Or you can make yourself comfortable on a deckchair with an exciting book.

Giarvino as an ideal base for holidays in Piedmont

But you know us: even though we like to relax for an afternoon, the urge to discover usually returns quickly. With three nights on site there is enough time to, in addition to enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and the extensive property, explore the surrounding area.

There is plenty to discover around Giarvino. Romy and Fredy are happy to support their guests in planning excursions and provide valuable tips. On request they also help organize cellar visits or bike tours.

We tried some of their recommendations and share our personal tips below.

Excursions around Giarvino

1. Stroll through Acqui Terme

You shouldn’t miss a stroll through the historic center of the nearby town of Acqui Terme. It’s particularly lively on Tuesdays and Fridays when market stalls are set up in the squares and alleys. But even on other days a visit is worthwhile.

The history of Acqui Terme goes far back. Even in Roman times the local thermal springs were counted among the most important in the entire empire. This is still evidenced by the relics of theRoman aqueduct, which once supplied the town and its baths with water.

Also the city’s most famous sight is closely linked to the thermal water. From the small, temple-like fountain «Fontana della BollenteIn the heart of the old town, sulfurous water bubbling at over 70 degrees bubbles up. There’s always a lively bustle around the fountain.

At the eastern edge of the Piazza Bollente the narrow alley «Via Scatilazzi» branches off, leading into the so-called «Quartiere del Vino» leads. Anyone who follows it discovers not only pretty lanes and the remains of the Roman theater, but also the Ristorante Da Nonna Gina, which is usually busy — and with good reason. Also recommended is the Osteria 46 on the northern approach (SS456), which is situated on the grounds of a former cemetery. Its exceptional atmosphere and carefully curated wine list make it a particularly fitting address.

Also worth seeing are the cathedral and the basilica, which, with their long histories and varied architectural styles, shape the town’s skyline.

Practical tip: If you visit Acqui Terme by car, you can park conveniently and free of charge on the Piazza Don Pietro Dolermo, just a short walk from the old town.

2. By bike through the rolling hills of the Monferratocycling

The hilly landscape of the Monferrato is wonderful to explore by bike. The local tourist board has assembled several varied circular routes. However, it’s worth noting that the constant ups and downs do require some fitness. Or — as I think — it’s ideal terrain for a brisk E-Bike tour!

Giarvino will provide maps of the different routes on request. If you don’t have your own bike, you can easily rent one locally. We rented our E-Bike for a day at the Bicicletteria in Acqui Terme rented and thus took the ‘Il Giro’, an approximately 40-kilometer tour through the hilly landscape of the Monferrato.

Our highlights along the way:

The small village Fontanile impresses with its building, constructed in the historicist style at the beginning of the 20th century, domed church San Giovanni Battista, which is visible from a distance. Also worth seeing are the numerous murals by the local artist Luigi Amerio.

A worthwhile stop is the Destillerie Berta, one of Italy’s largest and most renowned distilleries. On our tour we were unfortunately unlucky and encountered one of the few days when it was closed. Otherwise, a visit to the museum or a grappa tasting is worthwhile.

In Alice Bel Colle it’s worth climbing the few steps up to the Belvedere to go up. The panoramic view over the hills of the Monferrato to the 4,000-meter peaks of the Alps in the north and the Apennines in the south is impressive.

Practical tips: I have linked the route below (time required with an E-bike depending on the length of stops approx. 4 hours) | The E-bike rental costs 40 euros per day (incl. helmet) | E-bikes can be booked by e-mail at labicicletteria@libero.it – the earlier the better. Last-minute requests (e.g., the day before) are also possible | Further information can be found on the Bicicletteria website (in Italian). | An overview of additional cycling routes is provided by the website of the Comune Acqui Terme.

3. Discover the local wines during a tasting

The cycling tour described also takes you right through the town center of Strevi, where theMarenco winery is located. A visit to Monferrato would not be complete without a tasting of the local wines.

The family-run winery is now in its third generation and is managed by three women; it is particularly known for its Barbera and Moscato wines. Other grape varieties typical of the region, such as Dolcetto, Brachetto and Albarossa, are also vinified. After a very informative tour of the cellar and the small house museum, we sit in the tasting room and, accompanied by small snacks, have the opportunity to sample six different wines.

I was particularly taken with the MA RE’, a rosé made from Brachetto grapes. We also found the Passerì Strevi DOC fascinating. This dessert wine is a specialty of the village and differs in its production method from other Italian passito wines.

Practical tips: Marenco offers various tours and tastings; an overview can be found on the website | Guided tours in German are also available on request

4. Make a stop in Alessandria

Alessandria is about 35 kilometers north of Acqui Terme, not far from the E25 motorway, which you would take from the north on the way to the Giarvino. This makes it easy to incorporate a stop in the provincial capital into your route.

One of the main attractions is the «Cittadella di Alessandria», a star-shaped citadel erected in the 18th century according to the principles of Vauban fortification architecture. It is considered one of the best-preserved fortifications in Italy, although the passage of time has left clear marks on the buildings and the complex looks somewhat neglected. The inner area of the citadel can be visited freely, while other parts of the complex are not open to the public.

I was also pleasantly surprised by the old-town lanes of Alessandria, which repeatedly offer beautiful, picturesque corners.

Practical tip: A playful way to discover the sights in the city center is the app Alessandria al Torno (available as a free download).

5. Discover Cella Monte in the Monferrato degli Infernot

Northwest of Alessandria stretches the Monferrato degli Infernot, known for its wine cellars carved into the tuff. This is also home to the only village in the province of Alessandria that belongs to the association Borghi più belli d’Italia. To be honest, in my opinion Cella Monte does not particularly stand out in terms of beauty compared with the many other charming villages in the Monferrato. Nevertheless, it’s worth a side trip — if only for the drive, which, off the main roads, takes you right through the vineyards.

In the village center a few small wine bars invite you to linger. For a quick bite, the restaurant-bar «Il Nuovo Carpino», located a little outside the village, is a good option, where you can enjoy a cheese plate with a view of neighboring Rosignano Monferrato.

Extra tip: About 10 minutes by car further north, San Giorgio Monferrato with its imposing Castello also provides an impressive backdrop.

Practical tips for your trip to the Monferrato

Accommodation

• The Giarvino Boutique Guest House is open from late March to early November.
• Prices vary depending on the day of the week and room category. For a double room including breakfast you pay from around 130 Euro per night. You can find more information directly on the Giarvino website.
• The minimum stay is two nights.
• The Giarvino can also be rented exclusively for events such as weddings.
• An overview of seasonal experiences and activities can also be found on the websiteHosts Romy and Fredy are happy to assist with planning and organization.

Arrival

• It is possible to travel to Acqui Terme by train. The fastest connections run via GenoaThose who take the direct train from Zurich to Genoa can reach Acqui Terme with one transfer in just over seven hours.
• If you want to be mobile while there, you’ll need a car. Alternatively, the region is also easy to explore by bike, especially with an e-bike.
• We chose a combination of train and rental car. Since we wanted to avoid traffic on the Gotthard, we took the train via Lugano to Milan Malpensa Airport and rented a car there. From Malpensa Airport you can reach Acqui Terme in about two hours. For us it was a very practical solution to make the journey more relaxed while still remaining flexible locally.

Best time to visit and length of stay

• The Monferrato and the province of Alessandria are especially enjoyable to visit from spring through autumn. While in spring the countryside is a vibrant green, in autumn the grape harvest and the truffle season add extra highlights.
• For a first impression, two to four nights are recommended. That leaves enough time to both enjoy the Giarvino and explore the surrounding area at a leisurely pace.